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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Monday, March 31, 2008

EXHIBIT
Get lost in the weavings of Bhutan

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

A kushung (tunic) from the 19th century is made of cotton, nettle, silk, wool.

PHOTO COURTESY OF SHUZO UEMOTO | Honolulu Academy

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In the remote Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, it's the women who do the weaving. All the weaving. And some of this weaving is the most intricate ever seen anywhere in the world.

The complex motifs, auspicious Buddhist emblems and highly orchestrated geometry in these woven wonders can be appreciated by anyone, while experienced weavers can also appreciate the expertise required to achieve the designs. Woven on backstrap looms, their delicacy makes a fine showcase for the nation's artistry.

The textiles shown in Gallery 14 of the Honolulu Academy of Arts represent just one-third of the entire collection donated to the Academy by Canadian archaeologist and textile collector Michael Howard. It is said to be the second-largest collection of Bhutanese textiles existing outside of Bhutan.

The pieces are now on display in connection with the museum's major exhibit, "The Dragon's Gift: The Sacred Arts of Bhutan."

Curator Sara Oka, who is the collection manager of textiles for the Academy, arranged the pieces in chronological order.

The early works, dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, were woven from nettles, also referred to as bast.

Later textiles were created using cotton, silk and wool.

The exhibit clearly shows the evolution from natural fibers and dyes to the introduction of metallic and synthetic yarns, as well as chemical dyes. The earthy indigos and deep reds give way to brighter, more blatant hues.

In fact, many Bhutanese women today choose to wear their traditional wrapped garments, called kushutara, with a hot pink or turquoise silk Chinese jacket, Oka explained.

Oka said the most intricate textiles in the collection are evident in the kushutara, nicknamed hingtham, or "heart weavings," produced in workshops of the elite households of Eastern Bhutan.

"This highly orchestrated geometry of coordinated colors over striped backgrounds results in a dramatic effect of spectacular resonance," she said. "Equally ornate are the various widths of kera (belts) used by both men and women." The technique for making kera on a card loom may have originated in neighboring Tibet, she notes.

Intricate motifs such as horses carrying a load of sculpted butter, which is sometimes used as an offering at the altar, are among the most intriguing aspects of Bhutanese weaving. These are achieved by use of a supplementary weft. The patterning is so complex and delicate that it looks exactly like embroidery.

It might be a little disconcerting to see the swastika motif on many of these textiles. In Bhutanese Buddhism, this symbol means eternity.

Other symbols that appear repeatedly are a butterfly, an eight-pointed star and the tree of life, all traditional Buddhist symbols. Among the most interesting hangings is a weaving of the Dzongkha (language of Bhutan) alphabet.

"They have to be strong Buddhists to weave these because they have to be completely centered and balanced as they're weaving them," Oka said, with a sense of awe.

It's easy to get lost and feel transported to a remote Himalayan kingdom while experiencing "The Dragon's Gift." However, "The Textiles of Bhutan" are well worth a side trip.

Reach Paula Rath at paularath@aol.com.