WHERE: Beverly Hills. The 5.7-square-mile city northwest of downtown Los Angeles.

Every story you've heard about Beverly Hills is true. The Ferraris and Rolls-Royces, the $10 million spreads and the celebrity sightings are as real as the palm trees lining the wide boulevards. But contrary to its moneyed reputation and gilded veneer, the city is not elitist.

"The city hired me to make people feel comfortable," said Gregg Donovan, the dapper "ambassador" of Beverly Hills who welcomes visitors on the street by shouting out salutations in any of 100 languages.

"Some people are intimidated to go into our shops and restaurants, even Subway. They call it the 'Pretty Woman' syndrome. But I make them feel at ease."

It is understandable why one might feel like Julia Roberts' ill-dressed working girl. Beverly Hills is frequently touted as the most expensive housing market in the United States. Though such mainstream stores as Ann Taylor and Pottery Barn make appearances, Rodeo Drive is the catwalk of couture: Prada, Gucci, Chanel, Dior, Versace.

The 90210 boundaries start up by Britney Spears' house and extend down to the edge of Wilshire Boulevard. From the east, they begin at the western tip of Sunset Boulevard and stretch to the Beverly Hilton, where the Golden Globe awards take place.

TAKE THE TROLLEY: The tony area, however, wasn't born wealthy; it started out as a giant lima bean field. This tidbit came from a guide on the Beverly Hills tour. The Trolley Tour takes visitors on a 40-minute docent-led tour through the city's avenues past historic buildings of architectural interest, celebrity homes and, of course, designer shops in an old-fashioned trolley.

The 40-minute tours run 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily on the hour, Nov. 23-Dec. 30 (winter season); July 5-Sept. 1 (summer season). Tours operate Saturday and Sunday year-round from the corner of Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way in Beverly Hills. $5.

One-hour free parking is nearby. www.beverlyhills.org/attractions/trolley.asp.