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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, November 19, 2008

TASTE
Have a plan for flavorful leftovers

 •  Premium chocolates don't have to be pricey
 •  Leftovers done right

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

The original salmon dish, top, and the second coming of the salmon dish, fish tacos, made with leftover salmon, bottom.

Photos by BRUCE ASATO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Want to try the two-dinners-in-one approach? I've come up with a trio of ideas, several from The Advertiser's new cookbook, "The Island Plate II" (Island Heritage), due in stores this month. Here's how I conceal leftovers in plain sight.

The shopping lists assume you've got staples such as flour, salt, pepper, eggs, butter and oil.

STEW ... AND PIE, TOO

Shopping list: Stew meat, soup bones, beef broth or stock, beef concentrate, carrots, potatoes or squash, frozen pie shell, canned corn or frozen peas.

I love a really meaty stew, one that relies primarily on beef for its flavors and isn't overloaded with other ingredients — a carrot or two, potatoes or squash (pumpkin or any firm squash). My grandmother often used what we called pipinellas ("pea-pea-nellahzh") and the world knows better as chayote squash in place of potatoes when she made soup or stew. Pipinella vines were plentiful in our Portuguese garden. Here's my beef stew with squash recipe. If you like, add a teaspoon of ground cinnamon or allspice, another Portuguese touch that particularly works with squash.

JUST PLAIN BEEF STEW

  • Vegetable or olive oil

  • Flour, well-seasoned with salt and pepper

  • 2 pounds beef soup bones

  • 2 pounds beef stewing meat, cut into bite-size pieces

  • 16 ounces beef broth or stock

  • 2 teaspoons beef concentrate (Minor's, Better Than Bouillon, etc.)

  • 2 carrots, peeled and sliced

  • 2 chayote squash, cut into chunks (pipinellas)

  • Water

  • Salt and pepper to taste

    In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, Dutch oven or soup pot, heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Place seasoned flour in paper or plastic bag. Throw in soup bones and stewing meat and shake to coat. Fry bones and meat until browned on all sides. Add broth or stock and beef concentrate. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer 1 to 2 hours, until meat is tender. Add carrots and cook 10 minutes; add squash and cook 20 to 30 minutes, until vegetables are tender, adding water if the gravy doesn't cover all the ingredients. Taste and correct seasonings. Remove soup bones, cutting off any meat and adding it back into the stew. Divide stew into two portions, serving two-thirds the first night and reserving the other third for a future meal. Stew may be frozen or refrigerated for 3 to 4 days. It's better made ahead, refrigerated and skimmed of fat.

    Whole recipe (without reserving one-third) serves 8.

  • Per serving: (not including salt to taste) 400 calories, 30 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 70 mg cholesterol, 500 mg sodium, 10 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 2 g sugar, 22 g protein

    Day 2 shepherd's pie: Bring stew to room temperature; drain 1 (10-ounce) can corn or equivalent frozen peas and stir into stew. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bake an 8- or 9-inch pie shell 10 minutes; remove and cool. In a large saucepan full of water, boil 3 large or 4 smaller peeled potatoes; drain, leaving a little water; mash in pot and add 1 tablespoon butter, 1 egg yolk and 1/2 cup milk or cream, salt and pepper to taste. Fill pie shell three-quarters with beef stew, top with mashed potatoes and bake at 400 until potatoes are lightly browned, about 20 to 30 minutes. Broil to brown potatoes, if desired. Serves 4 to 6.

    Time-saver: Use "instant" mashed potatoes.

    MIXED GRILL

    Shopping list: Fish steaks or fillets, spice mixture (if desired), taco fixings (crisp taco shells, lettuce, tomatoes, grated cheddar or Mexican white cheese, taco seasoning mix, if desired, and/or salsa or pico de gallo).

    Grilled meats or fish are perfect for next-day use, especially if they're left rather plain so that additional spices can be added.

    Pan-roasting is a technique often employed by chefs but rarely by home cooks. Inspired by chef Tradi De Jardins of San Francisco, I learned pan-roasting basics and included them in "The Island Plate II." You need a heavy frying pan with a heatproof handle (NOT nonstick); fillets, chops or steaks of even thickness; canola or grapeseed oil and a little butter for frying; a seasoning rub for the meat or fish, and a pre-heated oven. An instant-read thermometer is a boon.

    PAN-ROASTED FISH

  • 2 to 3 pounds thick-cut fish fillets or steaks

  • Salt and pepper, Cajun- or Southwest-style spice rub (optional)

  • 1 to 2 tablespoons of canola or grapeseed oil; or 3 parts oil, 1 part butter

  • 1 tablespoon chilled butter for finishing

    Pre-heat oven 350 degrees. Rub or sprinkle fish generously with salt and pepper and/or Cajun- or Southwest-style spice rub, if desired.

    Place oil or oil-butter mixture in heavy frying pan with heatproof handle; heat to medium-high. Lay meat or fish in pan (skin side down, if it has skin). Sear for 6 to 8 minutes, until nicely browned. Turn and sear 8 to 10 minutes. Place in oven and finish, roasting for 8 to 10 minutes until cooked through. (Check doneness with instant-read thermometer; 120 degrees.) If desired, place a thin slice of cold butter on each fillet before it goes into the oven. Serve 2 fillets and reserve two, well wrapped, in refrigerator.

    Whole recipe (all 2 to 3 pounds) serves 4.

  • Per serving (analysis is for mahi mahi, nutrients differ with different fish types): 250 calories, 8 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, 175 mg cholesterol, 225 mg sodium, 0 g carbohydrate, 0 g fiber, 0 g sugar, 42 g protein

    Day 2 fish tacos: Break up fish and pick out any skin or bones. If desired, toss fish with Mexican spices or taco seasoning mix. In crisp taco shell, pile shredded lettuce, fish, grated or crumbled cheese, chopped tomatoes and salsa or pico de gallo. Serves 2 generously (2 tacos each) or 4 for a light snack.

    TOFU TWICE

    Shopping list: 1 pound firm tofu, onion, green onion, water chestnuts, bean sprouts, carrots, green beans, Filipino-style vinegar, patis, green or leaf lettuce, sloppy joe mix and hamburger buns.

    This recipe, too, is from "The Island Plate II." A 1969 Advertiser special section featuring ethnic recipes included one for beef lumpia, a favorite Filipino appetizer resembling Vietnamese spring rolls or Chinese egg rolls. In the 21st century, when many of us are avoiding deep-fried foods, tofu is a healthful alternative to beef and leaf lettuce takes the place of the pasta wrap. Use commercial soy "crumbles" or make your own; for the recipes upon which the homemade crumbles are based, I must credit cookbook author and nutritional expert Dr. Terry Shintani and food blogger (www.anythingtoeat.blogspot.com) Marylene Chun.

    LOW-FAT LETTUCE LEAF 'LUMPIA'

  • 1 pound tofu crumbles (recipe follows), reserve 1/2 pound for future use

  • 1/2 cup minced onion

  • 1/2 cup minced green onions

  • 1/2 cup minced water chestnuts

  • 1/2 cup bean sprouts

  • 1/2 cup grated carrot or carrot matchsticks

  • 1/2 cup green beans, tips trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch pieces

  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce

  • 1 tablespoon Filipino-style cane vinegar or cider vinegar

  • 2 cloves garlic, minced

  • 1 tablespoon patis (fish sauce) plus a little more for dipping sauce

  • Cooking oil spray

  • Green or red leaf lettuce leaves, washed and spun or patted dry

  • Flat chives, blanched and shocked with ice water to stop the cooking

    For dipping or drizzling:

  • 1/2 cup shoyu

  • 1/4 cup kalamansi (Philippine lime) or lemon juice

    Make tofu crumbles: Place 1 block firm tofu on a plate and weight with flat plate covered with canned goods, or some similar arrangement. Drain 30 minutes; pour off liquid. Cut into 1/3-inch dice. Place 1/3 cup whole-wheat flour in large flat pan or baking dish, sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper and dredge tofu in flour. In a nonstick frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat; fry half the tofu pieces in a single layer, shaking and turning gently until pieces are golden on all sides. Drizzle 1 tablespoon soy sauce and 1 tablespoon cider vinegar (or Filipino vinegar) over the tofu and season well with pepper. Repeat with remaining tofu.

    Make lumpia: In a large bowl, toss together half the tofu nuggets, onions, green onions, water chestnuts, bean sprouts, carrots and green beans with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon vinegar, garlic and 1 tablespoon fish sauce. Marinate 1/2 hour. Make dipping sauce, combining 1/2 cup shoyu, 1/4 cup kalamansi or lemon juice and patis. Set aside. Coat a medium to large frying pan with cooking oil spray, heat over medium-high heat and quickly stir-fry lumpia filling just until heated through and a little bit caramelized; vegetables should still be crisp. Place individual lettuce leaves on a flat surface; place 2 to 3 tablespoons of filling on each lettuce leaf and roll; tie with blanched chives. Arrange on platter with bowl of dipping sauce. Reserve remaining tofu nuts, tightly packaged, in refrigerator.

    Whole recipe (with 1 pound tofu) makes 24 lumpia.

  • Per roll: 50 calories, 2.5 g fat, no saturated fat, no cholesterol, 450 mg sodium, 4 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 5 g protein

    Day 2 tofu joes: Heat sloppy joe mix with tofu crumbles and pile generously onto two hamburger buns. To make sloppy joe mix from scratch, brown 1/2 cup of chopped onion in a little vegetable oil, add 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 1/2 cup ketchup, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, a dab of mustard and salt and pepper to taste; heat through until bubbling; taste, correct seasonings and add tofu crumbles. Pile onto buns. Serves 4.

    Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.