The first meal in Dublin forever transformed our family's favorite cold-weather comfort fare: beef stew.

While we battled jet lag at Madigan's Pub just off O'Connell Street, we tried the classic beef with Guinness — a hearty, deeply rich and flavorful bowl of beef stew beneath a cap of crisp pastry. After forks broke through the crust, all the wonderful aromas escaped. A bit of the "black stuff" was a great addition to the pot.

Each version of beef with Guinness in Ireland proved distinctive. Some cooks braised beef short ribs, others used beef chuck; some added rutabaga, and some served boiled potatoes alongside.

No matter those differences, the rich and bitter Guinness always permeated the tender beef and root vegetables.

Braising meat with beer is nothing new — they've been doing it in France and calling it carbonnade for centuries. In other lands, Belgian ale enriches beef short ribs and Texas Shiner Bock transforms a bowl of beef chili.

At home, we started with a simple beef stew recipe, substituting different types of Guinness for some of the broth. The Guinness Draught yields a stew with a subtle beer flavor. Real Guinness lovers might prefer a version made with Guinness Extra Stout for its deeper, dark flavors and richness. A slow-cooker ensures tender beef.

To start this Irish-inspired dinner, serve a salad of mixed greens topped with thinly sliced smoked salmon or trout and chives. To accompany the stew, try hearty whole-grain bread spread with softened Irish butter, such as the Kerrygold butter found at specialty markets.

Or, serve the stew in individual dishes topped with a puff pastry crust. For dessert, baked meringue layered with whipped cream and berries is simple and light.

This stew can be prepared a day or so in advance. Refrigerate it tightly covered. Remove and discard any congealed fat from the surface then reheat gently.

SLOW-COOKER BEEF AND GUINNESS STEW

• 3 pounds boneless beef chuck, trimmed, cut into 11/2-inch pieces

• 1/2 cup flour

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

• 1/4 cup vegetable oil

• 1 large (14 ounces) yellow onion, coarsely chopped

• 1 can (14.9 ounces) Guinness Draught beer or 1 3/4 cups Guinness Extra Stout

• 4 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 can (141/2 ounces) beef broth

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

• 2 bay leaves

• 2 small sprigs fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried

• 1 pound small red boiling potatoes, halved

• 3 carrots, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks

• 1/2 small rutabaga, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks

• 1 package (17 ounces) frozen puff pastry, thawed according to package, optional

Pat the beef dry with paper towels. Combine the flour, salt and pepper in a shallow dish. Add the beef; toss to coat well with the flour. Reserve the remaining seasoned flour for later.

Heat the oil in a large non-stick skillet. Add the beef in batches in a single, uncrowded layer. Cook until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes per batch. Transfer to a slow-cooker. Add the onion to the skillet; cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the Guinness and garlic; boil 1 minute, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the mixture to the slow-cooker.

Add the broth, parsley, bay and thyme to the slow-cooker. Cover; cook on low until meat is almost tender, 21/2 to 3 hours. Sprinkle in the reserved seasoned flour; stir. Add potatoes, carrots and rutabaga. Cover; cook on high until tender, about 1 hour. Taste pan juices; adjust seasonings.

If serving the stew with the pastry crust, heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut pastry sheets into quarters. Place on 2 baking sheets; pierce several times with a fork. Bake until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Spoon a portion of the hot stew into individual dishes. Top with a pastry square.

Note: To cook stew in the oven, transfer the browned meat and onion mixture to a large Dutch oven. Proceed with the recipe as directed; cook, tightly covered, in a 325-degree oven until meat is fork-tender, about 2 hours. Add vegetables, cover the pot and return to the oven until the vegetables are tender, about 1 hour. Makes 8 servings.

• Per serving: 493 calories, 53 percent of calories from fat, 28 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 105 mg cholesterol, 22 g carbohydrates, 36 g protein, 539 mg sodium, 3 g fiber