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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, April 3, 2009

Guilty pleasures

By Melissa Chang
Special to The Advertiser

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Chef Mavro.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Alan Wong.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Glenn Chu.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Sam Choy.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Hiroshi Fukui.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Chai Chaowasaree.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Roy Yamaguchi.

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You've gone to their restaurants to eat some of the fanciest meals. But like most Hawai'i folks, even the Islands' most renowned chefs get a hankering for comfort foods. We asked a few chefs what their favorite fast-food sins are, and you may be surprised to see how similar their palates are to yours.

CHEF MAVRO

George Mavrothalassitis — or Chef Mavro, as he is more widely known — serves some of the country's most highly regarded French Pacific fusion cuisine, yet he's partial to chili dogs. In fact, he even eats them at airport snack bars, if he has time. He used to swear by the chili dogs at Scoop du Jour at the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, but since that takeout spot closed, he's found his new favorite — the chili dog ($5.95) at Hank's Haute Dogs on Coral Street in Kaka'ako.

"For many years, I was a judge at the chili cookoff that Rick Enos used to put on in the Ward Centre area," said Mavrothalassitis, who moved to Hawai'i from Marseilles, France, in 1988. "We don't have chili in France. I thought it was so different. And since then, I have loved to eat good chili."

ALAN WONG

Alan Wong, one of the Islands' premier chefs for Pacific Rim cuisine, occasionally indulges in the "Hal's Special" ($6.10) at W&M Bar-B-Q Burger in Kaimuki. This item has everything on it: hamburger, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, dressing and teri beef, all nestled neatly in a bun.

"The Hal's burger at W&M reminds me of the 'Suzy Q' (barbecue beef, melted cheddar cheese and grilled onions) at Jolly Roger's during my college years," said Wong, who completed the two-year culinary program at Kapi'olani Community College.

GLENN CHU

Glenn Chu of Indigo restaurant doesn't have a particular restaurant he likes to visit, but he has a list of both savory and sweet indulgences. "Unfortunately I love snacking on chips (albeit organic): Cheetos Natural White Cheddar Cheese Puffs, Barbara's Pinta Chips and Lundberg Sesame and Seaweed Rice Chips. Then there are the sweets — my mom's cookies top the list and a close second is Haagen-Dazs coffee ice cream.

"I eat what I want in moderation; my weight can support the occasional junk food," Chu said. "I do care about what I eat and have a complete meal at dinner. But, after work, I like to relax and zone out with the foods I have chosen, which gives me comfort as well as pleasure."

SAM CHOY

Sam Choy, who owns Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch & Crab, keeps it reasonably lighter. He prefers the won ton min with extra vegetables ($6.20 for small bowl) or the fried saimin ($5.50) at Shige's Saimin Stand in Wahiawa. It reminds him of his childhood, when his father made saimin for the family. Choy likes Shige's because they make their own noodles fresh daily, and the flat noodles make it different and unique, which adds to its appeal.

HIROSHI FUKUI

The exquisitely presented Japanese fusion plates at Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas in Restaurant Row are a far cry from chef Hiroshi Fukui's favorite fast food: Rainbow Drive-In's boneless chicken plate ($6.25) with lots of gravy over everything, including the macaroni salad.

"I always liked gravy and rice, and I like Rainbow Drive-In's best. The gravy at other places tastes instant," Fukui said. "Plus, you can eat the gravy on the barbecue chicken; it matches. I wouldn't pour gravy over teri beef."

"UNCLE BO" PATHAMMAVONG

"Uncle Bo" Pathammavong, of Uncle Bo's Pupu Bar & Grill in Kapahulu, takes comfort in the spicy beef soup ($9.25) at Nickie's Café, a Vietnamese eatery just around the corner from his restaurant. While it may not be "fast food" by normal standards, Nickie's is such a tiny place that only neighborhood denizens would know about it.

"I like to support neighborhood businesses, and since it's just steps away, it's very convenient for me," he said. "I also like the service. I'm a regular there, so they know me, and they're so nice to me."

CHAI CHAOWASAREE

Chai Chaowasaree of Chai's Island Bistro has various food-court favorites, but when pressed, he named the fried chicken plate ($8.59 for two pieces) at Lahaina Chicken Company in the Ala Moana food court as his first choice. When you open the Styrofoam container, the plate lunch is big enough to last two or three meals, so he views it as a good deal.

"As a chef who works around fancy food all day long, sometimes a simple meal is best," Chaowasaree said. "I don't want to wait too long for food or take two hours for lunch, so often people see me at the food court."

Like his peers, Chaowasaree likes his food simple, quick and convenient, and has learned where to find the delicious deals that satisfy his cravings off the clock. He sums up these hot picks by haute chefs simply: "Often people say hello and laugh at me, saying, 'with all the good food at your restaurant, why are you are eating here?' But really, good food is good food no matter where you're eating it. So ... eat up."

ROY YAMAGUCHI

On his nights off — and when he's in the neighborhood — Roy Yamaguchi of Roy's Restaurant stops by Popeyes Chicken and Biscuits on Dillingham Boulevard for white-meat chicken with gravy and a side of dirty rice ($4.99, two pieces).