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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Authors see meat as more of an accent

By Sharon Thompson
McClatchy-Tribune News Service

Food budgets, the environment, animal welfare and carbon footprints are concerns of many people who choose to eat meat in moderation.

Only 5 percent of Americans are vegetarians, but many people are looking for ways to reduce meat in their diets, according to Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza in "Almost Meatless" (Ten Speed Press, $22.50.)

Their cookbook includes meat in many of the recipes, but as an enhancement rather than the centerpiece. A little bit of pork goes a long way when you roast a pork shoulder and pair it with a number of sauces that can stand in as the meat in other recipes, the authors said.

Instead of all-beef burgers, add bulgur, tofu, minced mushrooms, even shredded beets. Don't forget about eggs for dinner. They can stand on their own or be stretched to feed the family in Grecian frittata or pizza strata.

Chicken is a dinnertime staple, but instead of focusing on the fat grams in every portion, the book recommends cutting back significantly on the total amount of chicken we eat.

The recipes in Almost Meatless offer a different perspective to dishes that we're accustomed to eating. Instead of an ordinary tuna sandwich, make a French tartine, an open-faced sandwich that takes its cue from the classic salade nicoise, with tuna, beans, hard-boiled eggs, tomatoes, olives and herbs.

TUNA TARTINE

  • 12-ounce can tuna packed in water, drained

  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

  • 1 hard-boiled egg, cooled and chopped

  • 1/4 cup pitted nicoise or picholine olives, chopped

  • 1 tomato, diced, about 1 cup

  • 1/2 cup dried white beans, cooked, or about 1/2 of a 15-ounce can, drained and rinsed

  • 1 stalk celery, chopped into 1/4-inch-thick pieces

  • 2 tablespoons minced red onion

  • 1/4 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

  • 1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

  • Pinch of sugar

  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil

  • Butter for toast, optional

  • Crusty French bread (boule or baguette), sliced 1/2-inch thick, toasted

    In a bowl, combine tuna, pine nuts, egg, olives, tomato, beans, celery, onion and parsley. In a small bowl, whisk together mustard, sugar and lemon juice. Slowly whisk in oil until a smooth emulsion forms. Pour vinaigrette over tuna mixture and toss gently to coat.

    Butter each piece of toast if you wish and top with a few heaping spoonfuls of tuna salad. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

    ---

    This version of spanakopita is full of vegetables, chickpeas, feta cheese and a little bit of beef. It can be made vegetarian by omitting the meat.

    SPINACH AND CHICKPEA POUCHES

  • 2 teaspoons vegetable oil

  • 8 ounces ground beef

  • 1 small red onion, sliced into thin strips

  • 8 cups (about 6 ounces) loosely packed fresh spinach, coarsely chopped

  • 1/4 teaspoon dried chile flakes

  • 2 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)

  • 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves, chopped

  • 1 roasted red bell pepper, cut into thin strips, about 1 cup

  • 1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, cooked, or 15-ounce can, drained and rinsed

  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • 12 sheets filo dough, each lightly brushed with olive oil

  • 1/2 cup feta cheese

  • 1 egg, lightly beaten

  • 1 tablespoon lightly toasted sesame seeds

  • 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt, or sour cream

    Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

    To make the filling, heat oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Crumble in ground beef and cook, stirring occasionally to break up pieces. When meat is cooked through, remove it from the pan and set aside. Add onion, spinach, chile flakes, garlic and oregano to the pan, and saute until the spinach wilts. Remove from heat and stir in cooked beef, pepper strips and chickpeas. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.

    To assemble and bake, cut the 12 sheets of filo dough in half horizontally, so you have 24 rectangles. Stash the filo you are not working with under a damp tea towel to prevent drying. Divide into 6 stacks of 4. Place 1/2 cup of the beef mixture in a long mound toward the center of each stack, sprinkle with 1 heaping tablespoon feta cheese, and fold up the sides to enclose. Transfer each pouch, seam side down, to a rimmed baking sheet lined with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Brush tops of each pouch with egg, and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Transfer to the oven and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until the dough is golden brown. Serve each pouch with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream.