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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, August 16, 2009

Naval history rich at English harbor


    By Chris Oliver

     • Suds spectacular
    Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

    Visitors can ride an elevator to the Spinnaker Tower's observation deck for a panoramic view of the city.

    Photos by CHRIS OLIVER | The Honolulu Advertiser

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    Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

    HMS Victory, launched in 1765, is open for public tours at the Historic Naval Dockyard in Portsmouth, England.

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    Portsmouth Harbour, on the south coast of England, is home to the Historic Naval Dockyard of Britain.

    If you're interested in naval history or just enjoy old sailing ships with miles of rigging, the dockyard is the perfect place to wander around.

    First built during Tudor times in the 16th century, it's where Henry VIII's favorite ship the 500-year-old Mary Rose — or what remains of her — is on show. Admiral Lord Nelson's famous war ship HMS Victory is in drydock and open to visitors, and around the dockyard capstans and anchors the height of London buses rest quietly, their job done.

    HMS Victory, launched in 1765, is the oldest commissioned warship in the world, although the USS Constitution, launched 32 years later, is the oldest commissioned warship still afloat.

    Victory put to sea with 850 men — 250 to sail her and 600 to fight. Most slept in hammocks suspended from the low beams where headroom is well below 6 feet.

    In the Battle of Trafalgar, 1805, the British fleet led by Nelson aboard HMS Victory defeated the French and Spanish Armadas off the coast of Spain, west of Cape Trafalgar. Mortally wounded, Nelson died during the battle, becoming one of Britain's greatest war heroes.

    On a tour of Victory, key points for visitors are the quarterdeck where Nelson was felled by a sniper, and the lower gun deck where hundreds of men in dark cramped conditions fired her 30 heaviest cannons. In battle up to 14 men were needed to maneuver and fire guns weighing nearly three tons each.

    Other highlights: The Royal Naval Museum, the Mary Rose, raised in 1982 from where she sank off Portsmouth; naval memorabilia and lots of figureheads, cannons and anchors.

    At nearby Gunwharf Quay, visitors to the top of Portsmouth's Spinnaker Tower can catch an impressive 23-miles-on-a-clear-day panoramic view. The quay's many waterfront restaurants and pubs round out the day.

    Portsmouth Historic Naval Dockyard is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. All-inclusive tickets: $28 for entry to HMS Warrior 1860, the Royal Naval Museum and Action Stations, HMS Victory, Mary Rose and Harbour Tours. Tickets for single attractions from $6.50. www.historicdockyard.co.uk

    Spinnaker Tower is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. Ride to the top for $10.50. www.spinnakertower.co.uk.