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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, December 25, 2009

Want post-holidays simplicity? Try meals in bowls


By Mari Taketa
Special to The Advertiser

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Cold tsukemen at Go Shi Go.

Photos by Mari Taketa

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Duck noodle soup at Duck Lee.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Mini curry loco moco at Raraya.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Sweet and sour spare-rib saimin at Ethel’s Grill.

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You're cold and hungry, and thanks to the season of giving, partying and giving some more, you're cleaned out. What to do?

No worries — we get you. We spent the holidays slurping and scarfing Oahu's best meals in a bowl in anticipation of your post-season needs. Our three criteria:

• Each bowl had to be $7 or less.

• It had to linger on the brain, a taste memory we'd revisited fondly for days.

• If we didn't rave publicly about it at least once, it was off the list.

For the record, we went on foodie recommendations, reviews and personal experience; we checked countless menus and called more restaurants to pin down prices. There were bowls that came close and bowls we couldn't wait to get away from. For every one you see below, there were two others that didn't make the list.

So break out your chopsticks and spoons, people. Here they are, 10 must-try bowls under $7.

1. Cold tsukemen at Go Shi Go

Go Shi Go's handmade udon is the best in town, and no treatment showcases it better than this simple dish ($6.95). The shoyu dipping broth on the side is piping hot, an open invitation to dunk, pause, and slurp up a mouthful of silken noodles teetering now between warm and cold. Purists won't miss the bells and whistles of tempura, natto and other toppings.

903 Keeaumoku St., 942-0545.

2. Duck noodle soup at Duck Lee

For all our years of going to Market City, we never notice Duck Lee until someone points out the racks of roast pork and duck hanging in the window. The duck gets taken down, hacked up in front of our eyes and laid in generous rows atop a steaming bowl of mein ($6.50). Some pieces are bone-in, some boneless, all tender and succulent and with skin so good, we eat with our fingers in ways that would embarrass Mom.

Market City Shopping Center, 2919 Kapiolani Blvd., 735-5378.

3. Mini curry loco moco at Raraya

Molten curry madness surrounding a pure pork patty hiding under an invisible layer of cheese ($6). The secret's in the curry — Japanese powder cooked with the same slow-simmered pork bone broth used for Raraya's ramen, with a result that's so hearty it almost stands up on your spoon.

1145 S. King St., 589-2824.

4. Sweet and sour spare-rib saimin at Ethel's Grill

Impression No. 1: This bowl is big enough to wash our face in. Impression No. 2: Who gives you chili water to go with spare ribs? Impression No. 3: Whoa, this is brilliant.

Ethel's most popular saimin bowl ($6.75) has delicate noodles and a deep broth infused with rib flavor. Fish out the meat, shoot on some chili water, gnaw, repeat.

232 Kalihi St., 847-6467.

5. Turkey chili with cranberries at The Counter

Proving that even a chain can inspire, we include The Counter's chili ($6.50) because we not only scarf the smoky-meaty-piquant bowl and scrape it clean with the thick slices of salty buttered toast it comes with, we then run next door, buy all the fixings, go home and replicate the same dish. That night.

Kahala Mall, 4211 Waialae Ave., 739-5100.

6. Shoyu pork ramen at Off the Wall

The collagen-rich pork bone broth is satisfying without being salty, and the Sun noodles are al dente chewy, but it's the fall-apart, twice-cooked shoyu pork that stars ($6.25). Served as a special.

98-199 Kamehameha Highway, 486-9255.

7. Soft tofu chige at Cho Dang

All this, plus a bowl of rice, for $4.99 with sit-down service. That's awesome, and the chige is good, too — not the most extravagant in town, but flavorful with bits of ground beef, pork, a couple of shrimp and some mushrooms. The broth comes to the table bubbling, melting away our shopping wearies in clouds of garlicky steam.

451 Piikoi St., 591-0530.

8. Furikake salmon poke bowl at Fresh Catch

Technically, this is poke next to two scoops of rice in a hot dog container ($5.76 last Sunday; price by the pound), so if you're a stickler, tell them to moosh down the rice and spread the salmon over. And if you haven't tried Fresh Catch's furikake salmon, you need to find out for yourself what a sweet-light teriyaki sauce, some nori and sesame seeds can do to big chunks of unctuous fish.

3109 Waialae Ave., 735-7653.

9. Boiled pork bowl at Your Kitchen

Forget what the menu says, this is melty-soft shoyu pork in a savory-sweet sauce that drizzles down through the mixed greens and creamy potato salad hiding underneath and permeates the rice ($6.50). The panko-fried egg on top is pure gravy — literally; the soft yolk breaks and oozes out its own pure goodness.

1423 10th Ave., 203-7685.

10. Crab noodle soup at Pho Thinh

Minced paddy crab dances with shrimp, Vietnamese pork sausage, fried tofu and melting tomatoes in a rich seafood broth filled with rice noodles ($7.95). Topped with slivered ong choy and mint, just like at the best street carts in Vietnam, this Saturday-only special is so good, we make it our one exception to our $7 rule.

2080 S. King St., 947-3638.

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