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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, December 27, 2009

Big surf packs 'em in at Jaws


By LILA FUJIMOTO
The Maui News

PEAHI, Maui - Large and dangerous surf hit Maui's north shore Christmas Day, luring some daring tow-in surfers as well as hundreds of people who made their way down a rutted dirt road to watch.
At the big-wave surf spot known as Jaws at Peahi, some spectators arrived before dawn to claim prime positions for viewing the waves and riders.

Others showed up later in the morning, parking along both sides of the winding one-lane road or walking from homes nearby.

"It grew like a blink of an eye with all these people," said Laura Kong, who arrived at 5:15 a.m. with Jack Graff in his Ford F150 truck. "I woke up at 4 because I wanted to make sure we got a spot."

When the Haiku residents pulled up, two cars were already parked near the edge of the point. Sitting on a platform in the back of the truck later in the morning, Graff and Kong could see over rows of people gathered with cameras and binoculars focused on the thundering waves.

"It makes you want to ride one of these," said Kong, who had heard about big-wave surfing but was seeing it for the first time Friday.

The National Weather Service continued a high-surf warning through 6 p.m. yesterday.

On Friday, with waves predicted to reach 30 to 40 feet along the north shore, beachgoers were warned to stay out of the water and away from shorebreak. Nearby Hookipa Beach Park was closed in the morning, as water from waves estimated at 20 to 25 feet reached the park pavilion area. The parking lot above the Paia park remained open, filled with cars and spectators.

"It just so happens there's a tradition with Christmas Day and big waves," Graff said. "You get Christmas right here in front of you, plus surf and beautiful sun."

He said the sport has grown from a few years ago when a handful of surfers tried to catch the big waves. "Now all the young guys want to make a name for themselves," he said.

About 20 two-person teams of surfers and personal watercraft operators who towed in the surfers were at Jaws by mid-morning.

Haiku resident Tim Siver, whose son Luke was among the surfers, estimated the surf at 35 to 40 feet at the wave faces.

"This is medium-sized for Jaws," Siver said at midmorning. "I think it will get bigger for sure. The spectators are happy."

Earlier this month, when big waves also hit the north shore, Siver said another son, Levi, was surfing Jaws when he had both air vests blown off. Personal watercraft hit the rocks at the shoreline and were destroyed while trying to reach Levi, who managed to grab a personal watercraft to get out of danger at the last moment, Siver said.

"There's risk, there's plenty of risk," he said. "They're watermen first. They love the big waves."

Siver said the Christmas-morning crowd wasn't yet as large as the throngs of people, some walking far distances, who gathered at Jaws earlier this month. Then, cars lined Hana Highway as well as filling residential Hahana Road, which leads to the surf spot.

"This is my front yard," said Brian Maalea, who has lived on Hahana Road for the past decade. "Today is a good day. I guess this year on the holidays, Santa is giving the boys waves."

As vehicles pulled up, Maalea kept an eye out, directing drivers to try to keep the area clear in case of an emergency.

"If there's waves, I want people to see it," he said. "Everybody's being respectful to the aina."

Seattle residents Terry and Joan Inge arrived at Jaws after first going to Hookipa Beach Park at 7:30 a.m., only to find it closed. When they asked where else they could watch the big surf, a lifeguard directed them to Jaws.

"Amazing, real remarkable," Joan Inge said after watching the surfers. "That was a treat."

The couple were supposed to spend the holidays with family in Washington, D.C., but after a snowstorm closed the airport they rebooked their flight to make their first trip to Maui.

"This is much better," Terry Inge said. "Sadly, we have to fly home."

Many in the morning crowd were Maui residents in no hurry to leave.

"It's Christmas and the waves are perfect, so what better place to be on Christmas morning with your friends and mimosas," said Haiku resident Danoucha Starkweather, who was part of a group of seven people and two dogs. "We're watching all of our friends out surfing. I would rather not be anywhere else."

Friend Brooke Simonds, of Kula, agreed. "It's the perfect way to spend Christmas."

After first seeing surfers tackling the big waves about two weeks ago, Wailuku resident Dallas Howe was back with her partner, Mitch Nakamoto, and their 9-year-old daughter, Jasmine.

"I was just blown away, in total absolute awe," she said. "And the courage it takes for the surfers to go out there - they looked so casual when they were doing it."

So when the family awoke and heard the surf, they decided to venture back to Jaws.

"Christmas Day, we'll never forget this," Howe said. "This is our Christmas present to ourselves, to come and hang out and watch it. It's mind blowing.

"When you think about the recession and how hard money is to come by, to have this on your doorstep - it's a great gift."