PREMIER WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES
A South African adventure
By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Travel Writer
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No one warned Julie Rivers that diving off South Africa's coast came with epic surf conditions.
"Our boat entered the dive sites by navigating huge waves similar to winter swells at Waimea Bay," Rivers said. "... What an adrenaline rush!"
Beyond the break, however, underwater Africa was calm, a visual overload of soft corals, singing humpbacks, and a huge diversity of fish in water clarity Rivers described as "fabulous."
Sodwana Bay, dubbed "Serengeti of the sea," lies on South Africa's northeastern coast near Mozambique, where the African equivalent of the Gulf Stream moves warm Indian Ocean water toward Africa's tip, and the corals are among the best on the planet.
For Rivers, a marine mammologist and natural resources program manager at Pearl Harbor, it was one memorable stop on a South African odyssey that included Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, Durban, Zululand, Kruger National Park and the Cape's Atlantic coastline.
"I always wanted to go to Africa," said Rivers, who grew up reading National Geographic and Discover magazines.
Africa "is such a unique environment and promised such diversity and expansiveness, especially after living in Hawai'i."
South Africa's attractions for travelers are many: a mix of cultures, endless miles of unspoiled coastline, millions of acres preserved for spectacular wildlife, established vineyards, a range of ecosystems washed by a temperate climate, and evidence of humankind dating back thousands of years.
Drawn by the wildlife and a longing for adventure, Rivers seized her chance when a work conference took her to Cape Town.
When colleagues were unable to join her after the conference, she decided to travel solo, balancing safety concerns with the freedom to have each day flow the way she wanted.
"Safety was an issue, so I ran my itinerary past friends who knew the country," Rivers said. "I used the Lonely Planet guide, and Signature Tours in South Africa helped refine the trip and made bookings for me ahead."
Rivers then set off from Cape Town on a 2,000-mile adventure that replays like a movie in her head with a sound track of African music heard everywhere she went.
"Every day was jaw-dropping," Rivers said. "Every day was amazing and new; the diversity, the wildlife and realizing how very complicated South Africa is.
"Everyone I met contributed to a wonderful vacation, and although nothing bad happened, I felt a little on edge the whole time. I was alert — you could say I got in touch with my animal instincts."
Read on for highlights of her vacation.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
South Africa's national parks and preserves offer some of the premier wildlife experiences in all of Africa, but outside of these destinations, the scenery is stunning, too.
GARDEN ROUTE
From Cape Town to Port Elizabeth via the coastal Highway is almost 500 miles. Between Cape Town and the Tsitsikamma National Park area is the Garden Route — and is likely the most scenic drive in South Africa, stretching more than 370 miles along the coast.
"More than personal safety, I was worried about driving on the left side of the road, and the crazy driving I saw," said Rivers (South Africa's rules of the road demand slower drivers move out of their lane to let faster drivers overtake, even if that means onto the side of the road).
Crazy driving, however, was no distraction from the spectacular scenery that hugged the rugged Indian Ocean coastline.
Rivers broke her road trip at Mosel Bay, in Knsysa and at Tranquility Lodge, "where ocean and forests meet" in Tsitsikamma National Park. Known as Nature's Valley, the park boasts some of the best birding, kayaking, hiking, cycling and treetop tours on the Cape.
Rates start at $80 per room per night, double occupancy.
KWAZULU-NATAL: THE 'REAL' AFRICA
From Port Elizabeth, Rivers flew to Durban in KwaZulu-Natal province, rented a car and headed north to Sodwana Bay in the St. Lucia Wetlands.
This United Nations World Heritage site is one of South Africa's oldest parks. Its swamps, woodlands and wildlife home for Nile crocodiles and hippos. Baboons loiter fearlessly on the road. Offshore in November, humpback whales, whale sharks and nesting leatherback and loggerhead turtles are numerous.
"... It was refreshing to see something of the 'real' Africa. Villages in Zululand are much more traditional than anywhere else I saw; thatched roofs, villagers in traditional dress, roadside markets, kala weavers and really beautiful baskets."
EXCEPTIONAL DIVING: SODWANA BAY
"At Sodwana Bay (latitude 27 degrees south), the diving was just incredible," said Rivers. Dives were organized at 2-, 5- and 7-mile distances offshore so the ocean diversity was extraordinary."
With two dives per day and the intense wave action getting to and from the dive sites, Rivers was happy to mellow out with fellow divers in the park cabins in the evening. "There was little night life there, and that was just fine," she said.
A PADI-certified diver, Rivers booked her package with Coral Divers. A three-night package including accommodations in a standard cabin with five dives starts at $160 (equipment rental not included). Cabins are self catering; there are two restaurants in the park.
BEST WILDLIFE: KRUGER NATIONAL PARK
Leaving Sodwana Bay, Rivers continued driving north to Kruger National Park, the largest and oldest of Africa's game parks with more species of mammals than any other African game reserve.
"Kruger is so big it's not like a park," Rivers said. "All the Big Five animals are there. I saw leopards, rhino, elephants, hyenas, lions, zebra, giraffe ... and they're acclimated to cars; they don't react."
Visitors can tour with park rangers, take a self-drive tour, or visit the park as part of an organized safari trip. Daily and multiday safaris to view different wildlife at a range of prices are available (Rivers also opted one day to track lions with the park rangers).
She settled on two park rest camps about 90 minutes apart: Olifants — where lookout platforms over the Olifants River are good for sighting a large variety of wildlife, and at Satara, known particularly for its lion sightings. Bungalows, sleeping two, start at $75 per night.
WEST COAST NATIONAL PARK
Returning to Cape Town from Durban, Rivers flew over the West Coast National Park on the Atlantic side of the Cape of Good Hope, and was so drawn by the view from the airplane, she drove there at the end of her trip.
"It's an area of gorgeous sand dunes that surround the (Langebaan) lagoon with amazing beaches," Rivers said. "There are hundreds of sea birds, large snakes and ostriches. The beaches are covered in shells, and the water is very, very cold!"
Vineyards nearby are a nice alternative to the busier wine areas of Stellenbosch and Franschoek, with free tastings and fewer crowds, Rivers said.
West Coast National Park is about 62 miles north of Cape Town. Entrance to the park is free.
Self-catering Duinepos Chalets inside the park sleep four; rates start at $75 per night.
Reach Chris Oliver at coliver@honoluluadvertiser.com.
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