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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, January 4, 2009

Where foodies shop in San Francisco

By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Travel Writer

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The Ferry Plaza, on the Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street, has become on of the nation's prime markets for upscale foods.

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Where: Farmers market, Ferry Building, San Francisco

You don't have to buy a thing at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, but it's a challenge to resist. You can just walk by and ogle the vast variety of mushrooms (Far West Fungi have their own stall with dozens to choose from), or hover around the Cowgirl Creamery Artisan Cheese Shop. You can just swing by the Hog Island Oyster Bar or simply admire Frog Hollow's firm velvety-skinned peaches.

You can wander easily around the flower stalls where huge Northern California sunflowers mix with exotic imported blooms, or just sit and watch the shoppers and sip a foam-filled cappuccino.

You can, in fact, resist buying anything and still have a wonderful morning, or you can jump right in and start with one of Ciao Bella Gelatos' tingling flavors, among the best on the planet.

Launched as a one-time event more than 15 years ago, the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market's popularity has mushroomed — no pun intended — into a twice-weekly event that froths out of the building's historic arcades onto the Embarcadero attracting thousands of shoppers and visitors regularly.

There are breads and olive oils, caviars and mustards, pastries, jams and tangy olives; there's Peet's coffee, of course, and an Imperial Tea Court.

Anchored at one end by Sur La Table's exquisite kitchenware and accessories, and at the other by the Market Bar offering a seasonal Mediterranean menu from the market's produce, the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market sits at the bottom of — where else, but — Market Street, as a gateway to San Francisco's fresh-food heaven.

On the building's ocean-facing side you can sit outdoors, admire the Bay Bridge and watch the ferries — in summer, at least; in December, it's chilly.

But back to Boccolone's Salumeria hand-cured meat sampler — a delicious confluence of orange and wild fennel salami with Italian sea salt, slow-cured in spices and a natural casing. Or, if you're sightseeing, treat yourself to a dozen of the sweetest tangerines to refresh your stroll along the Embarcadero.

If you go: The Ferry Plaza Farmers Market is operated by the Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture. The market is open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays. 415-291-3276, www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com. The markets offer produce and flowers from small regional farmers and ranchers, many of whom are organic. A wealth of other products include regional artisan specialties such as breads, cheeses and jams.

Reach Chris Oliver at coliver@honoluluadvertiser.com.