TASTE
All-American Ribs
By Susan M. Selasky
Detroit Free Press
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DETROIT — No summertime barbecue bash would be complete without ribs, but trying to serve up the perfect rib can leave grillers reeling.
In "Raichlen on Ribs, Ribs, Outrageous Ribs" (Workmen, $12.95), author Steven Raichlen says that if there is one dish to master on the grill, it should be ribs. His description of what makes a perfect rib is tantalizing: "It should be handsome and dark, like polished mahogany, with a rough surface, like centennial tree bark."
Raichlen goes on to say that ribs should be tender enough to pull apart, but still have a little chew to them.
Experts recommend grilling ribs over indirect heat at 250 degrees to 275 degrees. For indirect grilling on gas grills, preheat all burners and then turn off the middle burner (if you have three) and turn the heat to low. For charcoal grills, position the coals to one side, and place the ribs where there is no heat below them.
But before you cook 'em, you've got to buy 'em. Here's the lowdown on the varieties:
Look for packages that are uniform in size with little visible fat. Trim away the flap on the non-meaty side and the triangular tip or smaller point. Feel your way around the top side of the rib for the brisket bone or rib tip area; cut this off, too. You can season these pieces with a rub and toss them on the grill alongside the slow-cooking ribs.
RIB KNOW-HOW
Serving up great ribs is no easy feat.
At Slows Bar BQ in Detroit, where patrons consume 600 slabs or more a week, ribs are cooked long and slow in the smoker — the best way to prepare them, says head chef Brian Perrone and other rib experts.
We've compiled a list of tips from Perrone, the Detroit Free Press Test Kitchen and Milt's Gourmet Bar-B-Que in Detroit:
Pull the white membrane off the back (nonmeaty side) of the ribs. This is called skinning the ribs, and it's one of the most important things you can do. If you don't pull the membrane off, the ribs will be tough. Start by loosening it with a knife, then grab the end with a paper towel and pull it off.
If marinating, always make enough marinade so that there's extra to use as a glaze, sauce or mop sauce to drizzle on the ribs during grilling. This will keep them moist and add flavor.
Use a basic rub to add a layer of flavor. Use one that doesn't have a high sugar content because it will burn. A basic rub can be made with paprika, garlic and onion powder, brown sugar, chili powders, salt and black pepper.
Do not parboil (precook in boiling water) the ribs because they'll lose their flavor.
Use indirect heat for slabs of ribs and closely gauge the temperature. Slows Bar BQ smokes its ribs between 225 degrees and 250 degrees for three to four hours.
Wood chips or small chunks of wood that have been soaked in water at least four hours can be used in a smoker box or gas grill or to toss on hot coals.
To check for doneness, lift the ribs with tongs. If they bend and are flexible, they're ready.
When ribs are almost done, wrap them in foil (called the Texas Crutch in the barbecue world) to help keep them moist. Remove the foil when ready to sauce the ribs.
Do not put sauce on the ribs until they are almost done. Most sauces contain sugar or a product that has sugar in it and the sugar will burn.
Perrone says the best way to baste ribs on the grill is to let the sauce cook on. Baste repeatedly.
