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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, May 8, 2009

A behind-the-scenes look at designer Coco Chanel

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Coco Chanel is the subject of an anniversary exhibit featuring rare photos, at the Waikiki Chanel store.

Photo courtesy of Douglas Kirkland

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Miss Bikini swimsuits are available only at Allure Swimwear, Royal Hawaiian Center.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Earrings are part of the new line of Michie jewelery being introduced at Riches Kahala.

Riches Kahala

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

REBECCA BREYER | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Coco Chanel's style is legendary and revolutionary. Most fashion folks agree she changed the way modern women dress. She was also a genius at recreating herself with panache and unabashed courage.

While she lived much in the public eye, Mademoiselle Chanel was intensely private about many aspects of her life. It was surprising, therefore, when in 1962 photographer Douglas Kirkland, age 27 and on assignment for Look magazine, was allowed to shadow her for three weeks. Kirkland captured the legendary fashion icon's intense daily routine of models, fitters, artisans, clients and friends. A trust and friendship developed, taking him far beyond his initial assignment. In fact, Chanel was so taken with the young man that she allowed him into her private rooms.

Kirkland's black and white photographs offer us a rare glimpse into the inner workings of Chanel's style, charisma and genius.

In honor of the Chanel boutique's 25th anniversary in Hawai'i, recently discovered images from Kirkland's extraordinary archive will be shown in Honolulu.

In addition to the photos, the boutique will feature an exclusive mannequin display of the Paris-Moscow Collection. This collection highlights the work of the Metiers d'Art, the Paris artisans who create haute couture details for Chanel collections. For this collection, designer Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by the early-20th-century Russian pictorial avant-garde. It's a rare opportunity to see the exquisite details that make up a Chanel couture collection. One black taffeta piece, for example, required 110 hours of work by the embroiderers at Atelier Lesage.

The exhibition, which is free of charge, will be open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, today through June 6, on the third-floor VIP salon in the Waikiki store on Kalakaua Avenue. Information: 923-0255.

KAHALA MALL CELEBRATES MOTHER'S DAY WITH TRUNK SHOWS

Michele Ferguson of Kailua works full time at Punahou School, but still manages to find time to create her line of edgy but elegant jewelry in silver, gold, semiprecious stones and baroque pearls. Her first collection, which she brought to the Punahou Carnival art show, blew out, and they asked her to bring more. They sold all 28 pieces, so she decided maybe she should look at this "hobby" as something more serious. From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. tomorrow, she will introduce her new line, Michie (her nickname), in a trunk show at Riches Kahala. Information and to RSVP: 737-3303.

Kahala Mall will also host a wedding expo, cleverly called "Mamma Mia!" from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. tomorrow. Providing inspiration will be winners of the 2008 Hawai'i Bride and Groom Wedding of a Lifetime Couple, Jane and Kahele. For comic relief, Oceanic Time Warner Cable TV personalities Matt and Cara will be present from 10 a.m. to noon. Wedding vendors with cakes, stationary, clothing, bridal registries and more will be present to help brides and grooms.

At Adore, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., will be a trunk show of sterling silver jewelry by Cathy Okinaka, of Vanilla Moon, who also creates customized jewelry.

NEW BIKINI LINES AND LONGCHAMP ADDED TO RETAIL MIX

Allure Swimwear has just introduced two new bikini lines to its Royal Hawaiian Center boutique offerings. Miss Bikini and Verdissima Mare from Italy are now sold exclusively at Allure, the only place in the country that carries the lines. These fashion houses only ship swimwear once a year, and now is the time.

Sister store Ai Amour Luxury Lingerie, also in the Royal Hawaiian Center, has just brought in Longchamp Paris handbags, travel bags, scarves and belts. Flirty powder pink and siren red are among the colors for summer. Longchamp has been in business since 1948, when founder Jean Cassegrain began manufacturing leather coverings for smoking pipes. Information: 265-2669.

ON OUR RADAR

LASTING LEI

We found two clever lei that will last long beyond graduation, and could be great for decorating a college dorm room. One, called "Island Favorites," is a faux maile lei with favorite snacks such as crack seed, iso peanuts and cookies, all with clever names: "most likely to suck-seed," "I-so happy for you" and "you're a smart cookie" ($25).

The second lei is called "Lauhala Balls," light, local and easy to take to the Mainland ($19). Both are made by Irene Kawaguchi of Wabi-Sabi, open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesdays through Saturdays, at 1223 Koko Head Ave., upstairs. Information: 734-3693.

Reach Paula Rath at paularath@aol.com.