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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Thursday, May 21, 2009

Farmer leaves 'em smiling


By Robbie Dingeman

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Ed Otsuji, right, owner of Otsuji Farm in Hawai'i Kai, sells vegetables straight to O'ahu consumers — an idea that came to him last year from his friend Norrin Lau, left.

Hawai'i Department of Agriculture

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DIRECT-TO-YOU VEGGIES ON RISE

Otsuji Farm is part of a growing trend in which consumers buy directly from farmers via a subscription service:

  • Otsuji Farm. Order in advance and pay $10 for an assortment of vegetables determined by what's fresh that week; pick up Saturday mornings in Hawai'i Kai behind Kaiser High School. To order, call 395-4131 or send an e-mail to njti4@hotmail.com. For more information, go to the farm's Web site/blog at http://www.otsujifarm.blogspot.com/.

  • Just Add Water. Based in Waimanalo, but pick-up is available at farmers markets and four other locations in Honolulu and Kailua. A group of organic farmers who offer a subscription service with a variety of choices of sizes, fruits, greens, etc. Consumers sign up for weekly or every-other-week subscriptions that start at $20 and can be ordered in subscriptions of four, eight or 12 boxes.

    For more information online, go to www.just-add-water.biz or call 259-5635.

  • Ailani Gardens. A Wai'anae-based organic farm that offers a subscription service of trial box at $20 or

    four-, eight- or 12-week subscriptions for a 3- to 5-pound box of fruits and vegetables. Pick up is at the farm or at Maunawili Elementary School in Kailua. Call 696-7616 or visit www.ailanigardens.com.

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    O'ahu residents looking for fresh vegetables line up Saturday mornings behind Kaiser High School to buy a $10 box of assorted vegetables straight from the farmer who grew them.

    Ed Otsuji has farmed 4.5 acres in Hawai'i Kai for 40 years on land he leases from Kamehameha Schools. His primary business is selling green onions, radishes, choi sum and other produce to supermarkets that include Safeway and Don Quijote.

    But his friend, Norrin Lau, got him started six months ago on selling straight to consumers in a homespun operation that leaves customers smiling. "We started just on a trial basis to see how this direct sales would go," Otsuji said.

    Lau wanted to know if he could buy some of Otsuji's vegetables. The straight-talking farmer, told him "no, I don't do that."

    Lau — who sells insurance for a living — persisted and asked if it would work if he got 10 people to buy boxes? Otsuji agreed, and the project got started in December and has grown each week.

    Last week, more than 150 people reserved boxes and Otsuji said he's ready for more orders.

    "We can produce more than we sell," Otsuji said. In his system, you order a box without knowing the exact contents and get at least 10 pounds. Last Saturday, the box contained: anuenue lettuce, daikon (turnips), bok choy, choi sum, radishes and green onions.

    If you duplicated the box at a supermarket, where you picked out each item and paid by the weight, it would clearly cost you a lot more.

    "We get a good deal," said Downtown resident Adrienne Muroda. She drives to the farm each week and shares with family. "I tried it and I loved it and I got my sister hooked on it," she said.

    Many people take the grab-bag approach as a challenge, splitting it with family and friends and swapping recipes. Others prefer to come and buy the vegetables they select from the card tables set up under the gray tarps along the farm's edge.

    Customers start coming from 8 a.m., following hand-painted green signs that lead them to the fresh veggies behind the Kaiser tennis courts. Most come from nearby but others drive from all over the island.

    Akemi Fukino lives in Wai'anae but works in town and drives out every other week. "The vegetables are fresh and inexpensive," she said.

    "It's just fresh," said Darlene Chee, who lives near the farm. "They've even got some critters on them," she said, chuckling and holding up some beets.

    Last week, customers also bought up cilantro, basil, eggplant, lettuce, beets, kale and sweet potato leaves.

    For Otsuji, it's a chance to meet customers and describe the vegetables face to face. "Now, Saturday's my favorite day of the week," he said.

    For Lau, it's a chance to help and it gives his talented but disabled son, Isaac, a job.

    Isaac created a blog for the business, and also replies to the Internet inquiries, Lau said.

    Volunteers also help run the busy Saturday morning operation. Otsuji gives them thanks and vegetables.

    Otsuji said the operation has changed what he grows, as he adds things like kale and Italian parsley.

    He's part of a trend toward what's sometimes known as community-supported agriculture. Some of the other Hawai'i farms specialize in organic produce and rely on a subscription system in which customers agree to buy weekly or a certain number of boxes.

    Waimanalo organic farmer Kimberly Clark has been selling fruits, greens and other vegetables for more than a dozen years, working with a hui of farmers across the state dedicated to nurturing more organic farming.

    At her Just Add Water business, customers pay $20 and up for a box that includes fruits and vegetables. But custom boxes are available at a variety of prices.

    And people can get an idea what they would be ordering by going to the farmers markets Thursday nights in Kailua or Saturday mornings at Kapi'olani Community College.

    "People can request certain things," Clark said. "You can get the boxes every week or every other week."

    At 53, Clark said she's seeing a new generation coming up supporting organic produce and locally produced food. Her farm's offerings include salad, kale, chard, papaya, sweet potatoes and "little bits of lots of things."

    She noted a dip in business when the economy slowed. "They're buying more now. They did buy less for a while."

    Otsuji describes his farming style as responsible but not certified organic. "I use organic pesticides and basic good farm practices," he said. "The main thing for me is to maintain the quality."

    He enjoys the chance to meet the people who buy what he grows. "Here you have people thanking you and encouraging you to continue."

    Otsuji, 59, has five full-time employees on the farm and he's happy with the size of his business. "My little patch over here is plenty for me."

    Lau said he's talked with other small farmers across the island who are considering similar operations. And he's happy to share what he's learned.

    His son's blog is a big hit among the customers, offering a chance to swap recipes.

    And it helps with their two major complaints: "We give them too much vegetables. We give them too much daikon."

    They offer advice that includes recipes for pickled daikon, curry stew and even a customer serving suggestion with Costco meatballs.