TASTE
Pop! goes breakfast
By Rick Nelson
Minneapolis Star Tribune
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It has been my experience that nothing elicits astonishment and gratitude at the table faster than the appearance of hot-from-the-oven popovers. Great taste aside, I love how popovers give the distinct impression that you made a major fuss, when in reality you pretty much threw together a glorified pancake batter, poured it into a funny-looking pan and then let a super-hot oven work its magic.
After relying upon the same recipe for what seems like forever, I recently got to wondering if a better popover formula exists. Out came the cookbooks, and I rather obsessively test-drove nearly a dozen formulas from culinary headliners including Martha Stewart, Marion Cunningham, Shirley Corrihor, Mark Bittman, Maida Heatter and Alton Brown as well as Cook's Illustrated, Gourmet and Bon Appetit magazines. Then I remade my tried-and-true recipe, lifted from a Dayton's Oak Grill flier that dates to at least the early 1990s.
The results ran the gamut. Some were flat-out failures (starting with a cold oven proved to be a major misstep, what was "The Fanny Farmer Cookbook" thinking?). Others relied upon too many steps (straining the batter doesn't pay off), or excessive gadgetry (I know I should own a pizza stone, but I don't).
That's when I started cobbling together components from various recipes, and I think I've arrived at a foolproof solution. Variation No. 17 — with its rested, room-temperature batter, extra egg white, ultra-wet texture, use of clarified butter and dual oven temperatures — produced a tender popover that soared to towering heights and boasts both a gently crispy crust and a mostly-dry-but-still-eggy interior. Eureka.
This recipe must be prepared in advance. To prepare clarified butter, cut unsalted butter into small pieces and melt in a saucepan over low heat, simmering undisturbed for 10 to 15 minutes but not allowing butter to sizzle, until fats separate. Strain mixture, discarding white milk solids and retaining clear yellow clarified butter. Refrigerate in a tightly sealed glass container for up to 1 month.
RICK'S PERFECT POPOVERS
In a large mixing bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat eggs and egg white until pale and frothy, about 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat milk in microwave oven (or in a saucepan over low heat) until just warm to the touch. Add milk to eggs and beat until combined, about 30 seconds.
Add butter and beat until combined, about 30 seconds. Reduce speed to low, add flour and salt and mix just until batter is consistency of heavy cream (a few lumps may remain) and lightly bubbled, about 30 seconds. Cover with plastic wrap and let batter rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to lower third of oven and preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place 1/2 teaspoon clarified butter in each popover tin. Loosely cover pan with aluminum foil, place pan on a baking sheet and preheat pan for at least 15 minutes.
Transfer batter into a container with a spout. When pans are hot, remove from oven, remove and discard aluminum foil and carefully pour batter into prepared cups, filling just under two-thirds full.
Return popover pan to oven (keep pan on baking sheet) and bake 25 minutes. Without opening door, reduce heat to 325 degrees and bake an additional 14 to 18 minutes until popovers are golden brown.
Remove from oven and let popovers rest 1 minute before gently lifting popovers from pans (some may require a little nudging with a dull-edged knife). Serve immediately.
Makes 12 popovers, six servings.
Popovers don't have much of a shelf life, which is why we asked Michelle Gayer, chef/owner of the Salty Tart in Minneapolis, www.saltytart.com, for a recipe that makes good use of leftover popovers. Gayer's idea — which puts fragrant Meyer lemons front and center — is so good, and so easy, that you'll find yourself making extra popovers, just so you'll have enough to prepare Michelle's strata.
MEYER LEMON POPOVER STRATA
For candied Meyer lemons:
For custard:
For strata:
To prepare candied Meyer lemons: Slice lemons into 1/4-inch-thick slices. In a pot of gently simmering water, blanch lemon slices until almost translucent, about 5 minutes. Immediately shock lemon slices in cold water to stop cooking process and drain in a colander.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a saucepan over medium heat, combine sugar with 1 1/2 cups water, stirring until sugar dissolves completely. Bring water to a gentle simmer and carefully add lemon slices, making sure not to crowd them in pan (you may have to do this in 2 batches). Cook lemon slices for approximately 3 minutes until fully translucent. Using a slotted spoon, remove lemon slices from water, transfer to prepared baking sheet and cool.
To prepare custard: In a large bowl, whisk together cream, eggs, and egg yolk until fully incorporated. Whisk in lemon zest. Using a paring knife, split vanilla bean. Scrape seeds from vanilla bean and add seeds and vanilla bean to custard. Cover and refrigerate custard until ready to use.
To prepare strata: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter sides and bottom of an 8- or 9-inch baking dish. Line bottom of baking dish with popover pieces.
Remove vanilla bean from custard, discarding vanilla bean. Pour custard over popover pieces. Arrange cream cheese pieces evenly over custard.
Arrange candied Meyer lemon slices on top of custard and bake for 20 to 30 minutes until custard is set. Remove from oven to a wire rack, cool for 5 to 10 minutes and serve.
Makes 4-6 servings.
