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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Thursday, November 12, 2009

Oahu lifeguards busy with dangerous surf


Advertiser Staff

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Red warning flags weren't enough to keep people out of dangerous surf at Sandy Beach today, so the city decided to close the beach park.

JEFF WIDENER | The Honolulu Advertiser

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City lifeguards today are warning of dangerous surf conditions along north and east facing shores, especially from Hanauma Bay to Makapuu.

Bryan Cheplic of the city's Emergency Services Department, said lifeguards are telling beachgoers about the unusual and dangerous conditions.
Lifeguards closed Makapuu Beach to swimmers this morning because of dangerous surf and will reassess tomorrow if the beach can be reopened to surfers, Cheplic said.
County lifeguards issued 950 preventative actions, or warnings to surfers and swimmers at Makapuu, Sandy Beach and Hanauma Bay, Cheplic said. Six people were rescued from Sandy Beach and Hanauma Bay, he said.
The National Weather Service continued its high surf advisory for east facing shores of Oahu, Lanai, Maui and Molokai until 6 p.m. tomorrow. Surf along east facing shores will be 12 to 18 feet today. The surf is expected to come down tomorrow. Lowering to 10 to 15 feet Friday.
Surf of 12 to 18 feet is expected on north- and east-facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu and Maui County and east-facing shores of the Big Island.
But it’s more than the size of the waves that’s creating hazardous conditions.
Cheplic says the swell is sending unusual wrap-around surf to east shores.
“It’s coming in at an extreme northeasterly direction (at Makapuu and Sandy Beach),” Cheplic said.
Patrick DeCosta, who grew up body surfing at Sandy Beach, said he’s never seen waves like this in 30 years.
“Normally, the break comes in pretty much straight ahead and the waves break about 100 yards offshore,” DeCosta said.
“Now the sets (with wave faces of over 10 feet) are breaking about a half-mile offshore and they're kind of coming in side-shore from the east.”
Earlier this morning, authorities on Kauai reported wave faces of 20 to 30 feet along the north shore and urged beachgoers to avoid the area.
The weather service says a strong high-pressure system far north of the Islands has combined with a nearby low-pressure system to create a large north-northwest swell. The swell is expected to turn toward an east-northeast direction tonight.