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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, November 20, 2009

Fun's up on the North Shore


By Catherine E. Toth
Special to The Advertiser

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Gavin Gillette was one of several Hawaii standouts on the opening day of the Reef Hawaiian Pro.

RICHARD AMBO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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It's the start of the North Shore's winter surf season, with huge, often monstrous swells luring the brave and the curious to this seven-mile stretch of some of the world's bestsurf breaks.

This otherwise sleepy coastline community swells by some 6,700 visitors during the winter months — both tourists and Island residents — who flock to the famed shoreline to get a glimpse of the epic surf and enjoy other events and attractions.

If you're planning a weekend excursion in the next few weeks, here's our list of the must-eats, must-buys and must-sees, happening between Haleiwa and Kahuku through December.

FOR THE SURF-CRAZED

Vans Triple Crown of Surfing: Pro surfers, spectators and people with long lenses on cameras flock to the North Shore for the prestigious Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, which started last week with the men's Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa. The holding period for the second jewel in the three-jeweled crown — the O'Neill World Cup — starts on Nov. 24 at Sunset Beach. (This event is paired with the women's Gidget Pro.) The $845,000 prize purse has attracted more than 150 surfers from 17 countries. Beach access is easy. But bring binoculars anyway.

596-SURF (7873), www.triplecrownofsurfing.com.

Wyland Galleries Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Art Show: Features paintings and other artwork inspired by the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. The six featured artists, including Wade Koniakowsky and Heather Brown, will be at the gallery on Saturday for a meet and greet 6-10 p.m.

Wyland Galleries, 66-250H Kamehameha Highway, 637-8729.

Talk Story/Photo Exhibit: North Shore Big Wave Beginnings: Join photographer Tim McCullough and Hawaii's first world surfing champion Fred Hemmings for a special photo exhibition and talk story night on Dec. 10 at 7:30 p.m. View 22 of McCullough's rare images shot on the North Shore in the late '60s, and hear Hemmings talk about the early days of big-wave riding.

Turtle Bay Resort Sunset Room, 57-091 Kamehameha Highway, 258-8533, free.

FOR THE FAMILY

Turtle-watching at Laniäkea: About a decade ago, a large sea turtle — later named Brutus — crawled ashore at Laniäkea Beach. Since then, this well-known surf spot has become a haven for the threatened species — and a frequent stop for visitors and residents. Brutus still basks regularly at the beach, along with about two dozen other sea turtles. Volunteers from the nonprofit Malama na Honu man the beach from sunrise to sunset every day, putting up protective barriers around basking sea turtles and educating visitors about these ancient reptiles.

Laniäkea Beach, www.malamanahonu.org.

Christmas in Historic Haleiwa: Features an annual parade at 6 p.m. Dec. 11, and photo ops with Santa at the North Shore Marketplace. It's also a good time to support local businesses and do your Christmas shopping, with merchants participating in sidewalk sales and events until 9 p.m.

Haleiwa, www.gonorthshore.org.

Haleiwa Art Walk: At this month's Nov. 28 art walk (5-9 p.m.), children can meet a special guest from way up North — the North Pole, that is. Santa will do his North Shore meet and greet from 5 to 7 p.m., while about 30 artists, stores and other vendors will display their wares at this popular monthly event.

Kamehameha Highway in Haleiwa, 637-4558, www.gonorthshore.org.

Eat shave ice: You can't drive out to the North Shore without stopping for a cold treat. Matsumoto Shave Ice boasts three dozen homemade syrup flavors and spill-proof plastic cups. Aoki Shave Ice relies on unique items such as its cream-based syrups and the new shave ice shake, a combination of shaved ice, syrup and two scoops of vanilla ice cream. Both are stellar; go with the shorter line.

Matsumoto Shave Ice, 66-087 Kamehameha Highway, 637-4827; Aoki Shave Ice, 66-117 Kamehameha Highway, 637-7017.

IF YOU WANNA PARTY

Rell Sunn Aloha Jam: Some of the Island's most popular artists — Jake Shimabukuro, Henry Kapono, Cyril Pahinui, Rob Machado and Paula Fuga — will perform at this big outdoor fest. The Nov. 29 event benefits the Rell Sunn Educational Fund. Doors open 6 p.m. Tickets ($25 general admission; $65-$75 VIP) available at www.rellsunn.com.

Waimea Valley, 59-864 Kamehameha Highway.

North Shore lifeguard fundraiser party: A huge bash that's one of the only Vans Triple Crown of Surfing-related parties that's open to the public. Come meet the world's top surfers, with entertainment by Donovan Frankenreiter, prizes and a fashion show. Sponsored by Billabong, Primo Beer and Monster Energy Drink, the bash benefits North Shore lifeguards . Saturday, Dec. 12, from 7 to 11 p.m. Tickets ($15 in advance; $20 at door) at Surf N Sea (637-7873).

Waimea Valley, 59-864 Kamehameha Highway.

FOR THE SHOPPER

Guava Shop: In a town lined with shops selling surf tees and kitschy shell jewelry, it's refreshing to stop into Guava Shop, a casual beachy-chic boutique in Haleiwa. Owners — and Kahuku High classmates — Liz Lerner and Kai Cost decided to open the boutique a year ago to cater to younger, hipper shoppers. "We knew there was a whole new audience for the clothes we wanted to sell, and no one had touched that market yet," Lerner said. Guava Shop features trendy brands such as Frankie B and Free People.

Best buys: Kai Fragrance Essential Oil ($45), Splendid tees ($36 to $70) and the Alternative Apparel Organic Sweatsuit ($75).

Haleiwa Town Center, 66-165 Kamehameha Highway, 637-9670.

Barnfield's Raging Isle Surf & Cycle: When Raging Isle opened in 1987, owners Bill and Wendy Barnfield decided to be different. So instead of just selling surf gear and apparel, they stocked their shop with mountain bikes and even employed a bike mechanic. Now, Raging Isle has morphed into a surf and skate shop. With one exception: a collection of hugely popular vintage jewelry and bags. "We bring in one-of-a-kind unique stuff and that's it," Wendy Barnfield said. "We get it, and it's gone."

North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Highway, 637-7707.

FOR THE ADVENTUROUS

Learn to SUP: While the waves might be too vicious for the novice surfer, just about anyone can learn to stand-up paddle surf, especially with instruction from Surf N Sea. You'll learn proper stance and technique and how to SUP safely. A two-hour lesson costs $85 and includes the use of a board and paddle.

62-595 Kamehameha Highway, 637-7873, www.surfnsea.com.

Take a hike: Some of the best views of the North Shore come from above. Kaunala Trail is an easy, roughly five-mile secluded hike through paperbark trees and native plants and across gulches and ridges. It starts at the end of Pupukea Road and offers sweeping views of the coastline and the Waianae mountain range.

www.hawaiitrails.org

FOR CAFFEINE JUNKIES

Coffee Gallery: It's not uncommon to see patrons walk into Coffee Gallery with their own mugs and greet baristas by their first names. This coffee shop has been serving up fresh-roasted, locally grown coffee and healthful treats for more than 20 years. You can't deny its charm: burlap coffee bags are stapled to the ceiling, and there's a sign that says, "Any child left unattended will be given a shot of espresso and a free dog." Best-sellers include the mocha freeze ($5.10); chocolate chip banana bread ($2.50 a slice); and the shop's carrot cake ($2.95) made famous on Rachael Ray's "$40 a Day" on the Food Network.

North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Highway, 637-5571.

Cafe Haleiwa: Who doesn't love banana pancakes with a good cup of freshly brewed coffee? That's one of the hot — literally — items at Cafe Haleiwa, a hole-in-the-wall diner oozing with a laid-back surfer vibe. Its oversize portions at affordable prices have made this spot a favorite among surfers and residents. And yes, caffeine junkies rave about the coffee.

66-460 Kamehameha Highway, 637-5516.

FOR SWEET SEEKERS

Ted's Bakery: A popular spot to grab a quick bite to eat after an early-morning surf session, Ted's Bakery, across from Sunset Beach, is a must-stop on the North Shore. In addition to its signature chocolate haupia cream pie ($10.50 for the pie, $2.80 for a slice), Ted's offers a variety of delicious pie flavors including banana cream, peach Bavarian and custard. But the bakery isn't just about homemade pies. The menu features hot sandwiches, salads and arguably one of the best garlic shrimp plates (around $11) on the island.

59-024 Kamehameha Highway, 638-8207.

FOR FOODIES

Lei Lei's Bar and Grill: Away from the packed eateries on the North Shore, this restaurant overlooking the golf course at the Turtle Bay Resort not only boasts great food but the chance to run into pro surfers gnawing on spareribs or dishing about the surf over beer at the bar. And if you're hungry, too, well, you're in luck. Lei Lei's has a nice spread for dinner, including a well-seasoned, slow-roasted prime rib ($24.95 for a 10-ounce cut, $30.95 for a 14-ounce, $33.95 for a 28-ounce bone-in).

Turtle Bay Resort, 57-049 Kuilima Drive, 293-2662, www.turtlebayresort.com.

North Shore Country Okazu & Bento: A decade ago, sisters Deann and Janelle Sakuoka quit their day jobs and decided to open an okazu-ya on the North Shore, where their father had grown up. They figured the hours — 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. — was better than working a 40-hour week in a cubicle. Better, maybe. But the sisters, who run both the North Shore Country Okazu & Bento and the Pupukea Grill lunchwagon, easily work 12-hour days, serving everything from hand rolls to Korean garlic chicken ($7.95, $5.95 for a smaller portion) to furikake mahi ($7.95, $5.95 for a smaller portion). In November, the sisters added $5 bowls, which have already become top sellers. And the homemade desserts — pumpkin crunch and creamy coconut cake (both $2.95) — are draws, too.

Haleiwa Shopping Plaza, 66-197 Kamehameha Highway, 637-0055.

Shark's Cove Grill: This isn't your ordinary lunchwagon. Just take a look at the menu: vegan taro burger, veggie scramble, fresh ahi skewers, banana protein shake. Surfers and foodies alike line up at this panel wagon across from Shark's Cove to indulge in healthy and delicious breakfast and lunch options, from hot oatmeal with cinnamon and raisins to one of the best acai bowls on the island. And everything's under $10.

59-712 Kamehameha Highway, 638-8300, www.sharkscovegrill.com.

FOR THE EARTH-AWARE

North Shore Country Market: For the past 14 years, the North Shore Country Market has given residents and visitorsa place to buy locally made products. About 200 people visit the market, now located at Sunset Beach Elementary School, every Saturday, browsing booths sellings everything from puka shell necklaces to watercolor paintings. There's also a free sock puppet class for kids. "It's not just a place for commerce," said Genesis Campos, who's on the board of directors. "It's a place for the community."

Sunset Beach Elementary, 59-360 Kamehameha Highway, 237-7022, www.northshorecountrymarket.org.

Haleiwa Farmers' Market: Every Sunday, from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., local residents and visitors come to this cheerful neighborhood market for everything from clean-tasting tilapia to fresh eggs. There are tables and chairs to sit down, as well as monthly festivals to celebrate seasonal crops and holidays, making it as much about community as fresh, local produce.

Kamehameha Highway and Robert P. Leong Bypass Road, Haleiwa