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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, September 11, 2009

Azrouel carves spring with ‘scalpel precision’


By SAMANTHA CRITCHELL
Associated Press

NEW YORK — Yigal Azrouel certainly found the sexy in the slash. His spring women’s collection, presented Friday at New York Fashion Week, was at its best when it flashed just a bit of skin in an unexpected place — or gave the illusion of doing so.

He described the slits in jersey dresses as carved “with scalpel precision,” all part of his fascination this season with geometry. There was a similar effect when he layered bands of black or taupe voile over a nude-colored base.
Two so-simple gowns oozed youthful sophistication thanks to the flattering soft drape — and nothing else.
Beware, though, of more bare midriffs. They’re OK in cut-out maillots but you can’t imagine a crop top under a gray jersey vest and linen wrapped shorts to be a go-to outfit for many women, not even Azrouel’s hip-chick fans.
“The collection and silhouettes are more defined and structured. I played with the contrast of bands and outlines against skin,” he explained in his notes offered to the editors, stylists and retailers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at the Bryant Park tents.
Azrouel also previewed menswear. With an emphasis on asymmetrical cuts on cardigans and vests, and pieced-together pants, the collection seemed to be disconnected to the chic women’s clothes.