SHANGHAI — This city lacks the grandeur and ancient palaces of China's capital, Beijing, but bustling, commercial Shanghai has plenty of attractions of its own: strolls down leafy streets bordered by elegant colonial villas, sweeping riverside vistas and — for six months next year — what promises to be the biggest World Expo ever.

Shanghai is gearing up for its role as China's showcase for the May 1-Oct. 31 Expo, whose theme is "Better City, Better Life," by remaking itself into the country's most chic and modern city — with prices to match.

But savvy visitors to this one-time Paris of the Orient can easily eat well, sleep comfortably and take in the sights without getting shanghaied by over-the-top prices.

A word to the wise: An Expo-related building boom has left some popular standbys temporarily off-limits. That includes the riverside walkway along the Bund — perhaps the city's most famous sight, with its imposing Western colonial mansions. Expect city traffic to be snarled by subway construction.

But this business-minded city of more than 20 million still has plenty to offer.

SHANGHAI SIGHTS

Start with Yu Garden, near the temple in the center of what used to be the old walled city. Near downtown, it's a brief walk from the city's new No. 8 subway line through neighborhoods of two-story shop houses, a vanishing lifestyle in this city obsessed with trading old for new.

Just outside Yu Garden in a pond graced by lotus plants and goldfish stands the Huxingting teahouse and a huge bazaar. Wander through the crowds — weekdays are a bit less jammed than weekends — through a warren of shops selling silk blouses, tea, tourist kitsch and other chinoiserie. If the crowds get to be overwhelming, not one but two Starbucks outlets offer a chance for unobtrusive people-watching.

Not far from Yu Garden is the Shiliupu ferry pier — terminal for cruises along the Huangpu River and for a 50 fen (about 7 cents) ferry ride to Dongchang Road and the glittering financial showcase of Pudong (literally east of the "Pu"). Continually busy but not overcrowded except during rush hour, the ferry is one of the few cross-river commuting options for the bike and scooter crowd.

Longer river cruises are also an option.

Once in Pudong, a short walk north takes you to the Riverside Promenade, which provides broad, stunning views of the Bund and busy river traffic — and scores of skyscrapers.

If it's a clear day, you might splurge on a 150 yuan ($22) ticket to the top of the Shanghai World Financial Center, whose transparent floors allow a look 100 floors straight down, and to the horizon in all directions.

Whatever you do, don't yield to the temptation to try to zigzag across the river to the Bund via the ferry. Regardless of what the signs and staff say, until the construction finishes, ferries headed in that direction are letting passengers off in the midst of a pedestrian no-man's-land.

A quick No. 2 subway ride back to Puxi (west of the river), only 3 yuan or 44 cents, will take you to Nanjing Road, Shanghai's most famous shopping street. Nearby People's Square is the location of several other key sights, including the city's renowned Shanghai Museum, and the Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, with its huge, detailed model of the city now and into the future.

Admissions for those facilities are inexpensive, but a stroll through the French Concession, one of several zones controlled by foreigners before and during World War II, can be had for free. Ditto for a gander at Xintiandi, a cluster of renovated traditional buildings housing elegant coffee shops, clubs and boutiques — but check the menus before sitting down for a bite to eat.

Farther afield, a quick trip to Longhua Temple, on the No. 1 subway line, is a lovely antidote to the crowding, noise and traffic of the center city. In the sprawling, quiet compound, worshippers young and old burn incense and prostrate themselves before seemingly countless golden Buddhas.

While Shanghai's outskirts lack the rugged scenery of the Great Wall, day trips or overnight visits by train or bus to the close-by garden cities of Hangzhou and Suzhou are easy, inexpensive getaways.