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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, September 13, 2009

History tangible at Gettysburg


By Martin Miller
Los Angeles Times

IF YOU GO

If you go: Gettysburg National Military Park Museum and Visitors Center, 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, Pa.; www.nps.gov/gett. Admission to the park is free.

For the Museum Experience: $10.50 for adults; $9.50 for seniors and active military (with ID); $6.50 for children ages 6 to 18. www.gettysburgfoundation.org.

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GETTYSBURG, Pa. — Only 90 minutes from the nation's capital is Gettysburg, which in 1863 was the site of the Civil War's bloodiest battle and its turning point in the East.

And at the national military park, amid about 6,000 sprawling acres, is an impressive new visitors center.

The $135 million center, opened in 2008, offers a dignified and moving introduction to the war's most famous battle. For those unfamiliar with Gettysburg, the 20-minute overview film, magnificently restored cyclorama and an artifacts-rich museum provide a solid historical foundation for newcomers and Civil War buffs alike.

In the days before radio, television and movies, cycloramas — often 300-plus-foot-long oil-on-canvas paintings that encircled an audience — were meant to recreate the experience of the battle. In its heyday in the late 19th century, the Gettysburg Cyclorama, which depicts the ill-fated Confederate charge led by Maj. Gen. George Pickett, reportedly brought veterans to tears.

Decades later, the cyclorama fell into disrepair, but underwent a $13 million, five-year restoration and re-opened last year. Although the cyclorama room is crowded and it can be hard to see, because of the painting's historical authenticity, it is a highlight of the museum.

Visitors can also explore the battlefield. Thanks to son Nick, who recently completed the fourth grade, we had an obvious and easily achieved agenda. Sites commemorating the Gettysburg Address and Pickett's Charge were within easy walking distance of the visitors center.

Finding the famed High Water Mark of the Confederate Army, the point of its greatest success during the battle's climactic third day on July 3, was tough without a guide. The precise area on Cemetery Ridge is one amid many monuments scattered across the fields. (There are more than 1,000.) But eventually we found the book-shaped monument near a clump of trees that we later learned date to the battle.

Next, we made our way to the Soldiers' National Cemetery, where President Lincoln delivered his immortal speech several months after the battle. It was inspiring to stand where Lincoln gave his most memorable address.