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Dispatches from: KUWAIT IRAQ AFGHANISTAN
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Posted on: Sunday, November 6, 2005

In return for aid, waves and heartfelt thanks

Pakistan mission photo gallery
 • Hawai'i soldiers settling into relief provider role
 • In Pakistan, hope comes from above
 •  Hawai'i troops on mission in quake-devastated region

By William Cole
Advertiser Military Writer

Pakistanis crowd the ramp of a Chinook helicopter before riding out of the earthquake-hit town of Gantar, in the mountains 100 miles north of the capital, Islamabad. A Hawai'i-based helicopter crew ferried the villagers south, to the town of Mansehra, to visit relatives evacuated to a hospital there after being injured in the Oct. 8 earthquake.

RICHARD AMBO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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ON ASSIGNMENT

Advertiser military affairs reporter William Cole and photographer Richard Ambo were embedded with soldiers from the 25th Infantry Division (Light) sent to help quake victims in Pakistan. This is their last report from the region.

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Holding a small child, an ethnic Pathan Pakistani checks out the view from a Wheeler Army Airfield-based Chinook helicopter packed with refugees.

RICHARD AMBO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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A Pakistani girl awaits transport out of the town of Gantar, in the mountains north of Islamabad. A helicopter crew from Wheeler Army Airfield carried the girl and others south to visit injured relatives in a hospital.

RICHARD AMBO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Pakistanis scramble toward a helicopter and a ride out of the earthquake-struck town of Gantar.

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A Pakistani villager, loaded down with bags and a baby, races away from the noise and downdraft of a Chinook helicopter after landing in Mansehra, 50 miles south of Gantar. Despite the deafening noise aboard the aircraft, and the language barrier, the Hawai'i-based soldiers are developing a quiet bond with the Pakistanis.

RICHARD AMBO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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With Chinook helicopters on the ground only briefly, Pakistanis in Gantar must move fast. The farming village of about 10,000 was devastated by the Oct. 8 earthquake that killed an estimated 80,000 people. About 80 percent of the homes in the village were destroyed, many of them flattened beneath tin roofs.

RICHARD AMBO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Defying both noise and a language barrier, Sgt. Jonathan Clark, of Scottsboro, Ala., and Company B, 214th Aviation, shouts into the ear of a Paki-stani soldier at a landing zone in Pakistan’s Bagh province. Clark’s CH-47 Chinook helicopter and crew were delivering relief supplies to the area.

RICHARD AMBO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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GANTAR, Pakistan — The Chinook helicopter relief flight reached far into the mountains of Kashmir, hustling toward an ever-more dramatic view of the looming Himalayas with every mile.

But it was the sight of the people in this remote village that made a lasting impression on the Hawai'i-based crew.

As about 50 men, women and children lined up at the aft deck of the big helicopter for an emergency flight from Gantar last week, an old man with a long beard dyed orange scooped up handfuls of rice and sugar that had spilled on the helicopter's floor during an earlier aid drop-off. He tucked the supplies into his knee-length brown shirt.

The man's effort "shows you how badly they need the food — that they don't want to waste any of it," said Sgt. Heath B. Robinson, 27, a power-train mechanic from Rogersville, Tenn., with the Company B, 214th Aviation "Hillclimbers."

Then someone carried a crippled man on his back into the aircraft, putting him down on a red nylon bench that lined both sides of the chopper.

The dirty face of a young boy with a cleft palate flashed with fear as the engine and twin rotors of the Chinook roared. Yellow earplugs handed out by the crew stuck out of his ears.

Four women in head-to-toe burqas — one in orange, one in black, one in green and one in gray — came aboard.

The passengers were unfamiliar with riding in a helicopter. Some cried. Others sat in clumps on the rice- and sugar-covered floor, held each other and put their hands over their ears. They did not speak with crew members as language barriers and noise — rotors don't shut down during pickups or drop-offs — stifled such conversation.

Most did not appear to be coping with injuries from the massive Oct. 8 earthquake that literally moved mountains, killing an estimated 80,000 people and leaving more than 3 million homeless. This group was being taken to the city of Mansehra to visit loved ones who had been injured and were evacuated earlier to a field hospital there.

'THANKS AND PRAISE'

Upon arriving in the city, departing passengers waved, and in heartfelt handshakes expressed thanks. The Hawai'i soldiers, in turn, said they were moved by the gratitude.

"Just seeing their faces and the relief they got makes you feel good inside that you're doing something for these people. They've lost everything," Robinson said. Sixty soldiers with his unit will be in Pakistan for several more weeks or months.

During the flight from Gantar, Robinson said, he noticed a man sitting on the floor of the Chinook, whispering to and hugging his wife, who was in a black burqa that hid her face.

"I was just thinking he was saying, 'Everything is going to be OK. We're going to get some help,' " Robinson said.

Capt. Faisal Naveed Ashraf, 27, a fixed-wing aircraft instructor with the Pakistani army who flew with the pair of Hawai'i Chinooks as a liaison pilot, said about 80 percent of the homes in Gantar were destroyed. Moreover, the sight of the village's stone-and-wood homes flattened beneath tin roofs — in greater numbers in this region than in some other places struck by the 7.6-magnitude quake — told of the loss of what little this group had.

Ashraf said the villagers are Pathans and have tribal connections to Afghanistan.

Spc. Steven LaNigra, 21, a crew chief with the Hillclimbers, said the relief missions run by the Hawai'i unit's four Chinooks over the past week reminded him of the year the Hillclimbers recently spent in Afghanistan.

"We did a lot of that stuff in Afghanistan, too," said LaNigra, who is from Saco, Maine.

On Christmas Eve, the unit brought in eight helicopter loads of food, blankets, school supplies and medicine to a small town it had adopted.

But while Afghanistan is a combat zone, and U.S. forces have to keep up their guard constantly, "here, it's been humanitarian aid," LaNigra said. "It's only been thanks and praise."

That extends to the Pakistani military, which has been on the ground at many of the landing zones to provide security and help offload relief supplies.

HANDSHAKES MEAN A LOT

At an earlier stop the same day in Bagh, 60 miles northeast of Islamabad near the divide that separates Indian and Pakistani Kashmir, more than a dozen Pakistani soldiers helped unload 10,000 pounds of sugar and rice and 15 big red bags with rations to feed a family of five for a week.

"Afterwards, one (Pakistani soldier) started shaking my hand, and then all of them starting shaking my hand," LaNigra said. "We had to go, but I'll wait for that."

Ashraf said Pakistani soldiers have been impressed with the Americans, and the feeling is mutual.

"It's a very good experience and I like them (the Americans) because they are working hard," Ashraf said. "They don't have rank separation — everybody is working hard as one unit."

Ashraf said he has seen U.S. officers, traveling in the Chinooks to see how cities have been affected, pitch in to help offload supplies.

"It's not their job, but they are working hard," he said.

LaNigra said the Pakistani soldiers have worked feverishly to load and unload heavy bags of food and other supplies onto and off the Chinooks so they can make as many relief runs as possible.

One setback to the effort was a report that a rocket-propelled grenade was fired at — but missed — one of the U.S. Chinooks near Chakothi on Tuesday near the Indian Kashmir border. In that case, the helicopter flew back safely to Qasim Air Base in Rawalpindi.

The Pakistani military said blasting was going on in the area, and that may have been mistaken for a rocket attack.

Navy Cmdr. Nick Balice, a spokesman for the U.S. military's Disaster Assistance Center at Chaklala Air Base, countered that the U.S. crew had served in Afghanistan and is familiar with rocket-propelled grenade fire, Reuters reported.

"Based on the reports we had from crew members, that's what we think it was," Reuters reported Balice saying. "We are staying a safe distance away from that area as we continue to investigate the incident."

U.S. Chinook pilots at Qasim said they weren't intimidated by the single incident but planned to be more vigilant.

GEOGRAPHY, UP CLOSE

On Monday, a Hawai'i Chinook developed a vibration in its forward transmission, "which constitutes land immediately in an open area," said Sgt. 1st Class Steven Wyllie, 35, from Daytona Beach, Fla.

The helicopter touched down on a ridgeline, and the Pakistani military was en route to guard the aircraft, but the decision was made that it could fly safely, and it made it back to Qasim Air Base.

"The biggest concern is we never want to leave one of our own out there," Wyllie said.

Heading to Gantar — a farming village of 10,000 about 100 miles north of the Pakistan capital Islamabad — with 9,000 pounds of sugar, cans of Russian sardines, stoves and more big red bags of food, the CH-47D Chinook traversed a deep canyon and river amid steep, piney mountainsides etched with farming terraces that glowed golden with wheat.

Flying at 6,500 feet, the helicopter was dwarfed by ridgelines — still without snow — that extended to much greater heights on either side.

In some cases, hamlets perched on ledges were accessible only by steeply angled trails. To the north, the snow-capped Himalayas are a reminder of the winter about to descend on Kashmir.

LaNigra earlier had noted his flights in the Himalayas, the Tora Bora mountain range in Afghanistan and the Hindu Kush.

"My mom told me, 'You're learning your geography,' " he said. "I said, 'No, I'm living it.' "

SIGNS OF PROGRESS

The Chinook again touched down in Gantar for about 20 minutes before it was back in the air.

LaNigra dropped a box of earplugs on the helicopter's floor, scattering the small packages. Several passengers scrambled to politely help him pick them up.

With children clinging to their parents, this new group sat quietly on the half-hour ride to Mansehra, staring at the U.S. soldiers and out the back drop gate at the mountains and valleys thousands of feet below.

They exited the helicopter with the U.S. soldiers knowing just as little about the individual passengers as when they boarded, but with empathy for the group and their plight.

Left scattered across the floor of the empty helicopter was the evidence of another day of earthquake assistance: a coating of rice, sugar and dozens of yellow earplugs.

Reach William Cole at wcole@honoluluadvertiser.com.

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