In Chinatown and other neighborhoods with a lot of foot traffic, dim sum is an everyday occurrence, generally served from the early morning to early afternoon, although the largest crowds appear on weekends. The Islands' dim sum tradition is a bit less formal and tradition-bound than in other centers of Chinese immigration.

HAPPY DAY

This selection of dim sum specialties is from Happy Day restaurant in Kaimuki. The filled buns and stuffed delicacies are served directly from their bamboo steaming baskets. To order, just point. Jeff Widener • The Honolulu Advertiser

That Hawai'i has a strong dim sum tradition is not surprising since the custom originated in Canton, the region from which many Hawai'i immigrants came. The term is variously translated as "a little bit of heart" or "heart's delight" or "dot heart," meaning something that touches the heart. The name speaks to the connection between dim sum and human interaction. These drawn-out meals — consisting of dumplings, baked treats, savories, snacks and, invariably, tea — are not taken alone. The dim sum table is a place at which to do business, trade gossip or socialize. When tea is poured for you, rap on the table twice with fingers or knuckles in a "thank you" gesture. Steaming carts emerge from the kitchen every few minutes during the height of dim sum service and all you need to do is point to be served.

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