Noodles are to Hawai'i what chili, clam chowder and spaghetti are to other parts of the country: the hearty, hot, filling, cheap thing you choose at night after you've worked or played too late. Here, we focus on our old favorite saimin (known elsewhere as ramen), Japanese udon and a newer introduction, pho.

BOULEVARD SAIMIN

This is a typical mom-and-pop saimin stand, where the broth is housemade and there are 'ono barbecue sticks and shrimp tempura to have on the side.

1425 Dillingham Blvd. 841-7233. No reservations. No credit cards. No checks. $.