Noodles are to Hawai'i what chili, clam chowder and spaghetti are to other parts of the country: the hearty, hot, filling, cheap thing you choose at night after you've worked or played too late. Here, we focus on our old favorite saimin (known elsewhere as ramen), Japanese udon and a newer introduction, pho.

JIMBO RESTAURANT

If you luck into a parking space, Jimbo is the place for Japan-style udon (noodle soup), hot or cold with vegetables, chicken or tempura. Be prepared to wait after you sign in.

1936 S. King St. 947-2211. Lunch 11 a.m.-2:50 p.m. daily. Dinner: 5-9:50 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. No reservations. VS, MC, JCB. No checks. $.