Where to go for malasadas, a great steak, or udon? Islanders just love to debate such issues. Here, some popular shops and restaurants that specialize.

EBISU CATERING

This classic Japanese okazuya in McCully still sports the slide-up window through which you eye the goods while you stand in line. The business, known for catering weddings and funerals, has been in the same family for 40 years, and every day, customers clog the sidewalk waiting for their cone sushi, shrimp tempura, Okinawan sweet potato tempura, noodles, namasu and other specialties in individual bento boxes or packed for parties.

1915 S. King St. 941-6055. 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Thursdays-Tuesdays. Closed Wednesdays. No reservations. No credit cards. No checks. $.