Islanders have adopted sushi bars and izakaya (casual "taverns") as their own. Izakaya are a newer import; the term implies a relaxed place, where the food is mainly of the small plate, a la carte sort, and meant to be consumed with beer or sake (or both!)

IZAKAYA HATSUNE

Yes, there's a sushi bar — owner Masaru "Steve" Yamada was a sushi chef in New York for years — but Yamada here also re-creates the Okinawan specialties of his childhood. Choose rafute (braised pork), goya champuru (bittermelon stew) and, if there's any jimami dofu (silky peanut tofu), by all means try it.

1436 Young St. 942-1137. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Dinner: 5:30-11 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday.