Islanders have adopted sushi bars and izakaya (casual "taverns") as their own. Izakaya are a newer import; the term implies a relaxed place, where the food is mainly of the small plate, a la carte sort, and meant to be consumed with beer or sake (or both!)

IZAKAYA NONBEI

Izakaya Nonbei specialties: sashimi moriwase ("chef's choice," center), matsutake broth in teapot (right), Nonbei (garlic) steak (platter, right), beef croquettes (top) and karei karaage (deep-fried flounder, top left). Advertiser library photo

From "Irasshaimase" ("Welcome!") to "Mata kite kudasai" ("Please come again!"), this is as close to visiting Japan's classic folksy taverns as many of us will ever get. Popular items: karei karaage (crunchy rich deep-fried flounder), Nonbei special steak, dobinmushi (fragrant mushroom consomme).

3108 'Olu St. 734-5573. 5-11:30 p.m. daily.