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NEIGHBOR ISLAND DINING

The Neighbor Island restaurant scene is a changeable one, but also tends to be where innovative and experimental concepts get started. Here's a quick tour.


MAUI

Bev Gannon's Hali'imaile General Store offers and eclectic menu of what might be termed "Southwest Tropics" cuisine, such as coconut seafood curry.

Tony Novak-Clifford photo

Just a couple of blocks from the airport (and also in Kihei), stop at Marco's Grill & Deli, (808) 877-4446; Kihei, (808) 874-4041, for a Brooklyn-style Italian meatball sandwich, a beer and sports on TV; hearty breakfasts, too.

In Old Wailuku town, Sam Sato's, (808) 244-7124, in an office park off Mill Street, is known for Maui's distinctive "dry mein" (hot noodles with broth on the side and tender char siu on top). Not far away is A Saigon Cafe, (808) 243-9560, offering a full bar and a wide range of Vietnamese food; try the deliciously rich clay-pot dishes.

The Cafe's owner, Jennifer Nguyen, has partnered with chef Patrick Callarec in Who's the Boss Bistro, (808) 244-6816, an East-West lunch-and-dinner place in Wailuku. Also in Wailuku is A.K.'s, (808) 244-8774, where chef Elaine Rothermel serves plate lunches, dinners and desserts low in fats, carbs and sugars.

In Kahului is Mañana Garage, (808) 873-0220, almost the only place in Hawai'i doing a successful Nuevo Latin thing.

Headed Hana way, Mama's Fish House, (808) 579-8488, appeals to visitors and locals for its kitschy décor (think tiki) in a genuinely Hawaiian environment (a former beach house), and consistently well-prepared seafood (Pua Me Hua Hana, fish cooked with coconut milk and lime juice).

Upcountry, Bev Gannon's Hali'imaile General Store, (808) 572-2666, is a must-stop for the crab boboli (she's still not telling the recipe), the country store ambiance and the Hawai'i Regional Cuisine with touches of Bev's native Texas (Hunan-style rack of lamb, Szechuan Barbecue Salmon). In Makawao town, Casanova Italian Restaurant, (808) 572-0220, is a longtime favorite for excellent contemporary Italian food.

Maui's south shore, from Ma'alaea to Wailea, is lined with beaches — and restaurants. Nick's Fishmarket Maui, (808) 879-7224, a beautiful veranda-level space overlooking the grounds of the Fairmont Kea Lani Hotel, is known for savvy service and use of fresh, local seafood and produce. A sister restaurant, Sarento's on the Beach, (808) 875-7555, is a relaxing, open-air space with attentive service and good food (Portobello Napoleon, Osso Bucco, 'Ahi Tonnato). Chef George Gomes oversees Nick's and Sarento's.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar in Kihei, (808) 879-0004, serves two distinct crowds in this mall location — those who enjoy early dinners (innovative Asian-accented cuisine and sushi) and boisterous late-night karaoke. Wolfgang Puck's Spago, (808) 874-8000, quietly caters to the L.A. crowd at Four Seasons Wailea Resort. Joe's Bar & Grill, (808) 875-7767, is Bev and Joe Gannon's lively surf, turf and comfort food restaurant.

In Olowalu, chef Patrick Callarec brings his native France to a village the size of a postage stamp at Chez Paul, (808) 661-3843, so authentic you'll feel as though you're in France.

Next come the resort towns of Lahaina, Ka'anapali and Kapalua. Up Lahainaluna Road, Gerard's, (808) 661-8939, overseen by chef-owner Gerard Reversade for the past 22 years, serves well-prepared contemporary-country French food. Longhi's, (808) 667-2288, on Front Street, continues to offer popular pasta and seafood (this and its Wailea sister restaurant were 2003 and 2004 'Ilima Award winners). Cafe Sauvage, (808) 661-7600, serves contemporary American steak and seafood. David Paul's Lahaina Grill, under owner Jurg Munch and David Paul-trained chef Arnulfo Gonzalez still satisfies. Chef James McDonald oversees the award-winning menus at i'o, (808) 661-8422, and Pacific'O, (808) 667-4341, hip companion restaurants; each testifies to his artistic background, the success of the Upcountry farm and orchard established to serve the restaurants, and his skill with fresh seafood.

Roy's Kahana Bar & Grill, (808) 669-6999, and more casual sister restaurant Nicolina's, (808) 669-5000, offer Roy Yamaguchi's trademark and groundbreaking Hawai'i Regional Cuisine, great service and a well-chosen wine list. In Kapalua, the original Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, (808) 669-6286, is still the place for dishes that redefine sushi.
















Legend:

VS: Visa
MC: Mastercard
AX: American Express
DC: Diners Club
DS: Discover Card
JCB: JCB Card
Olioli: Olioli Card
$$$: Pricey; entrées mostly more than $17
$$: Moderate; entrées $10-$16
$: Budget-friendly; entrées mostly less than $10

Checks: Local checks and travelers’ checks only


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