As we define it for this guide, casual dining is a state of mind. It doesn't necessarily mean inexpensive, though it usually implies good value - getting as much or more than you paid for. It doesn't necessarily mean shorts and slippers, though it suggests a relaxed dress code.

I LOVE COUNTRY CAFE

At these restaurants popular with athletes, bodybuilders and others who closely watch their diets, you can get anything from a virtually fatless vegetarian meal to a standard, gravy-over-everything plate - it's your call. The service is fast, the items are grilled to order, and there are numerous daily specials. The menu is typically local with lots of stir-fries and other Asian-style preparations. They cater, too.

Three locations: 451 Pi'ikoi, near Ala Moana Center, 596-8108; Pearl Harbor Navy Exchange, 423-6555; and I Love Country Express, Kahala Mall, 4211 Wai'alae Ave., 735-6965. 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. No reservations. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $.