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CRITIC'S CHOICE: HELEN WU (BEST OF THOSE REVIEWED IN THE PAST YEAR)
Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas
Chef Hiroshi Fukui unfurls his contemporary kaiseiki talents in this namesake eatery, part of D.K. Kodama's restaurant group, showcasing small dishes that draw the eye and delight the tongue. It's hard not to get blown away by expertly crafted misoyaki butterfish and red-wine-braised veal cheeks on the same menu, in addition to some of the most inventive desserts in Honolulu. Those who share his aesthetic consider the diminutive portions perfect and the prices good value for the uncompromising quality; those who equate value with volume may not be as pleased.
Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana. 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. Reservations recommended. Valet and self- parking. VS. MC, AX, DS, JCB. No checks. $$$.
Web site: www.dkrestaurants.com
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