"Saluta," or hostess, Alana Kenner displays the dessert tray at Romano's Macaroni Grill restaurant at Ala Moana Center.
	ADVERTISER LIBRARY PHOTO | Jan. 4, 2006

We can say it in two words: Shrimp Portofino. This dish, we think, personifies what's right with Macaroni Grill: It's simple and straightforward (shrimp, mushrooms, pine nuts, spinach, garlic, butter and lemon), it's enjoyable, it's reasonably priced ($16.29 at dinner) and amply portioned, and if it's not authentically Italian, who cares? As happens with most chains when they hit Hawai'i, Macaroni Grill has been mobbed since it opened in November, 2005, and since they don't take reservations (except for parties of six or more), a wait is almost inevitable at peak times. But you'll have fun once you get inside, what with singing waiters, the Tuscan country house decor, the crayons and butcher paper to draw on, the Italian language lesson tapes in the restrooms. As our critic said, "(Romano's Macaroni Grill) shows how far America has come from Rag— in a jar. The Mainland chain poses stiff competition for many of the island's indie Italian restaurants."

Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana, fourth floor, suite 4240. 356-8300. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Reservations for parties of six or more. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $$$.

Web site: www.macaronigrill.com

Checks: Local checks and travelers’ checks only