Every year, we look forward to our annual trip to Hilo so we can stop in and visit chef Josh Ketner and see what's new at Hilo Bay Cafe, one of the first restaurants in Hawai'i to pair a commitment to organic/vegetarian/healthy foods with a fine dining sensibility and a no-judgment menu that ranges from roasted tofu to steak and garlic fries. Ketner has good relationships with farmers and makes ample use of the organic produce and seasonal fruits in which the Big Island is so rich. There's no bay view (it's in Waiakea Shopping Center) but who cares, since the focus here is on the plate and on your dining companions. The black-and-cream decor is sleek and service is generally brisk, although they can get a little overwhelmed during the lunch and dinner rush. There's a full bar along one wall with a well-chosen wine list.

315 Maka'ala St. Suite 109, Hilo. (808) 935-4939. 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Sunday dinner only: 5-9 p.m. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DS. No checks. Lunch: $, Dinner: $$$.

Checks: Local checks and travelers’ checks only