Roy's Restaurant in Hawai'i Kai is the Spago of Hawai'i. Spago restaurants in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills are foodie meccas but also serve as a home kitchen away from home for well-heeled regulars. Similarly, Roy's is both an internationally known, high-end fine-dining restaurant and a neighborhood hangout. The folks from Hawai'i Kai and Portlock are down in the bar, making a meal from pupu and talking story with their regular waiters while the visitors and celebrating locals are upstairs gawking at the open-plan kitchen and trying to hear the night's specials over the hubbub. The food is the draw: longtime favorites such as the ribs and the butterfish of course, but also chef Ronald Natsui's specials.

Two locations: 6600 Kalaniana'ole Highway, Hawai'i Kai. 396-7697. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m. Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday, 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday. Also, Roy's Ko Olina, 92-1220 Ali'inui Drive, in Ko Olina. 676-7697. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. daily, pupu menu: 2-5:30 p.m., dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$$.

Web site: www.roysrestaurant.com

Checks: Local checks and travelers’ checks only