12th Avenue Grill    It's a sign of a good restaurant when you can close your eyes, poke your finger at the menu, and be happy with what it lands on. Chef-owner Kevin Hanney's contemporary American bistro, a busy room of wood banquettes and a long red-oak bar (perfect for solo dining with its view of the kitchen), has a whole list of signatures, such as the grilled pork chop with apple chutney and kim-chee steak. But it's on the specials list where Hanney and his tight kitchen crew heat things up. On a given night you might get the choice of oregano-pepper-crusted ahi and crisp-skin duck confit with bok choy and mango-chili puree. How good does that sound? And pastry chef Samantha Choy still makes her retro-comfort desserts such as fruit crisps and cinnamon bread pudding. With a full bar in place, the well-edited wine list fits the food like a velvet glove. Don't forget to get a tub of smoked ahi spread to go. Who knew fish and Gruyère made such an outrageously addictive combination?  1145C 12th Ave. 732-9469. 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Reservations recommended. JCB, MC, VS. No checks. $$$.