Fast and fancy: With grilled 'ahi and Provencal tomato salsa, Nico's at Pier 38 takes the humble plate lunch to a new, exalted level. Advertiser library photo

Nico's at Pier 38    Chef Nicolas Chaize has cooked in fine-dining establishments for most of his career, but when he opened this takeout spot, he created a winning combination: gourmet food, plate lunch prices, a covered lanai, all just steps from the pier's edge. He gets his fish ultra-fresh from the United Fishing Agency auction the furikake pan-seared ahi is the best-seller but he also makes a mean double cheeseburger (it's like meatloaf). Sunday breakfasts, with live music, are particularly nice.  1133 N. Nimitz Highway. 540-1377, 6:30-6 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturdays. AX, DS, MC, VS. Checks accepted. $.  Web site: www.nicospier38.com