Spice it up: Layers of flavor are to be found in Bombay Indian Restaurant's rich lamb rogan josh. The menu includes lots of vegetarian options too. Advertiser library photo

Bombay Indian Restaurant   At Honolulu's best Indian restaurant, the menu is largely the usual Punjabi roundup, but chef Anand Bhandari makes regional detours. Curries are sophisticated and multilayered. The mixed grill from the tandoor oven yields two moist morsels each of chicken, lamb and shrimp. Inside tips: The food is prepared mild, unless you ask for spicy. Raita, mango chutney and pickle aren't on the menu, but you'll get them if you ask. And go wild: Bombay has a full bar. Get comfortable on the orange-backed banquettes under subdued track lighting. For a brunch alternative, try the Sunday buffet for $19.95. Owner Ashwani Ahuja, a veteran restaurateur from the Washington, D.C., area, is a gracious host.  Discovery Bay Center, 1778 Ala Moana. 942-3990. 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Sundays. AX, DC, DS, JCB, MC, VS. Dinner: $$.