'Elua   France and Italy embrace in this fine-dining partnership between two of Oahu's biggest culinary personalities Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani. The commonality, of course, is the greater Mediterranean region. Padovani was born in Marseille and Donato in Puglia the ingredients, and the bright, true flavors of these areas are second nature to both men. The seasonal menu is really two in one: Half of it by Loperfido, the other half by Padovani. The chefs take turns in the kitchen, and the trained second of the other is also there, so both sides are always covered. Whether you go French (crisp duck confit, veal chop in a Perigueux sauce) or Italian (duck carpaccio, Chianti-braised lamb shank) the food is consistently good to great. And the service is impeccable. The dynamic duo revamped the former L'Uraku space with dark wood and Hawaiian-themed artwork by the likes of Avi Kiriati.  1341 Kapiolani Blvd., 955-3582. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 6-11 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 6-11 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. AX, DC, DS, JCB, MC, VS. No checks. $$$.  Web site: www.eluarestaurant.com