Formaggio, a Wine and Cheese Bar   Wes Zane and Almar Arcano's bunker at Market City captures the atmosphere of an Italian catacomb. And wine fiends make a beeline there for small dishes, the 50 wines by the glass (a good overview, from a Mount Veeder Cab to a Greco di Tufo) and live music Thursday nights really swing with a party atmosphere. The popular pizzas fennel and sausage, smoked salmon are Rome meets Wolfgang Puck. The pan-European menu (with aberrations such as a Cuban sandwich and Wagyu hamburger steak) includes the hit Kobe burger panini and braised short ribs in a cabernet bordelaise sauce. Don't skip dessert: The chocolate bread pudding is deep cacao sin. Want to learn more about wine? Master sommelier Roberto Viernes gives a monthly class. In the works: A Formaggio Grill in Kailua.  Market City Shopping Center, 2919 Kapiolani Blvd. 739-7719. 5 p.m.-midnight Mondays-Thursdays, 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. No reservations. AX, MC, VS. No checks. $$.  Web site: www.formaggio808.com