Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas    Chef Hiroshi Fukui doesn't get as much media attention as Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi, yet he may have the most deft touch of all Island chefs when it comes to marrying Asian and Western flavors and technique. Crab sweetens canneloni, slow-cooked salmon is like a savory pudding, red-wine-braised veal cheeks comes with still-crisp diced vegetables (like an haute TV dinner peas-n-carrots mix). He has serious fun with his food. And he constantly experiments with new toys like his sous vide machine. (Foams and gelees are old hat for Fukui.) Dishes come in small plates and large, and can be paired seamlessly with selections from the Chuck Furuya-devised wine menu. Look out for the thrice-yearly contemporary kaiseki dinners, when Fukui pulls out all the culinary stops.  Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana. 533-4476, 5:30-9:30 p.m. daily. Reservations recommended. Valet and self-parking. AX, DS, JCB, MC, VS. No checks. $$-$$$.  Web site: www.dkrestaurants.com