La Mer    There is no more gracious or serene room in the Islands than this open-air wood-toned second-floor space with its vaguely Asian motif and picture-postcard view of Diamond Head you feel like you might see Clark Gable sitting at a table. Chef Yves Garnier's “Cuisine Soleil” is the essence of France with a touch of Hawaiian sunlight (and more than a touch of Island-grown ingredients and locally caught seafood). Dine at a leisurely pace, taking time to enjoy the music drifting up from House Without a Key, savor the bouillabaisse or wagyu beef in a Bordelaise sauce, and sip wines selected for you by knowledgeable wine manager Randy Ching. Service is formal, with lots of tableside preparations. You choose two, three or four courses from the menu ($90, $120 and $135), and there is a nine-course degustation menu for $150. Garnier has also devised a $75 three-course vegetarian menu that includes steamed fish. Dress code: Men must wear jackets or long-sleeved, collared shirts.  Halekulani, 2199 Kalia Road. 923-2311. 6-10 p.m. daily. Reservations required. Free valet and self-parking. AX, DC, JCB, MC, VS. Checks accepted. $$$$.