Aaron's Atop the Ala Moana    Local boy Rolden "Dell" Valdez, formerly of The Kahala, C&C Pasta, 3660 On The Rise and Sergio's, presides over the kitchen at this popular fine-dining house that is also a hot nightclub (so if your aim is quiet conversation, go early). Aaron's is perfect for entertaining out-of-town guests for two reasons: the eclectic menu and the views of the city lights at night — it's on the 36th floor of the Ala Moana Hotel and is wall-to-wall windows, with raised banquettes in the center, so even third-row diners have a view. Although a Continental streak runs straight through the center of the offerings (escargot, foie gras, caesar salad, fish in lemon-butter sauce), there are touches of Asia and the Pacific as well ('ahi tiger eye sushi, onaga with baby Shanghai cabbage, soy-nori vinaigrette and sizzling peanut oil), which means you can satisfy many tastes. Formal service; extensive wine list.  Ala Moana Hotel, 410 Atkinson Drive. 955-4466. www.tristar restaurants.com. 5:30-11 p.m. Sundays- Thursdays, 5:30-11:30 p.m. Fridays- Saturdays. Reservations recommended. Valet and self-parking. AX, DC, DS, JCB, MC, VS. Checks accepted. $$$$.  Web site: www.tri star-restaurants.com