Leonard's Bakery   When Leonard's goes — Deus forbid! — we'll know Island food is truly endangered. Though there's debate over who makes the best Portuguese specialties, Leonard's grease-stained bags and boxes of malassadas and packages of rich, eggy pao doce (Portuguese sweet bread) continue to flow out the door in large numbers in the hands of locals and visitors alike. The bakery with its trademark neon sign was founded by Frank Leonard Rego in 1952 and is still operated by the Rego family; matriarch Margaret Rego is said to have been the one who suggested making malassadas (a name that is strictly a Hawai'i thing — elsewhere, these are known as filhoses and are flat, rather than globular).  933 Kapahulu Ave. 737-5591. 5:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. AX, DC, DS, JCB, MC, VS. No checks. $.