Merriman's   Chef Neil Murphy, whose resume includes time in such storied New York kitchens as Aureole and La Cote Basque, took the helm of the kitchen last year, and the restaurant's continued win in this category proves he's doing something right. The place still focuses on the freshest and best that local farms, ranches and fishermen bring in. Now staff are grilling locally grown herbs and vegetables in the garden to use in signature dishes such as ponzu mahimahi and the Kahua Ranch lamb. The bare bones Lokelani tomato salad drizzled with olive oil is a classic. The compact country inn-style restaurant can be uncomfortably crowded at peak times; try going early or late, or on a weeknight.  65-1227 Opelo Road, Waimea. 808-885-6822. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m., 5:30-9 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 5:30-9 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Reservations recommended. AX, MC, VS. No checks. Lunch: $$. Dinner: $$$$.  Web site: www.merrimanshawaii .com