Molly's Smokehouse   This is REAL barbecue, and it’s as rare in Hawaiçi as ti leaves in Texas. The smoker is right out front, enticing customers with the scent of meat slowly caramelizing — ribs, pork, brisket, chicken. And it’s really drysmoked, not braised (or even microwaved) in a mess of sauce, as is the case in many other places. Margaret “Molly” Walker grew up cooking for crowds with her parents and siblings, who had a catering business. We recommend the mixed plate so you can try all the different meats, with sides of beans, hush puppies and tater salad. And if you don’t like barbecue, there’s chickenfried steak.  23 S. Kamehameha Highway, Wahiawa. 621-4858, www.mollys smokehouse.com. 10 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. DS, MC, VS. No checks. $$.  Web site: www.mollyssmokehouse.com