Gyotaku Japanese Restaurant   Gyotaku on King Street is known for its grab-and-run bento business by day, offering reasonably priced combo plates from butterfish to tempura, saba to teri beef (about $8 for a combo including two entrees, rice, mac salad and pickled vegetables. Hint: If you go right at 1:30, everything left is half-price.). But it's in the dining room that the restaurant shows both its character and its playful sense of humor, in sushi with names like Fuzzy Wuzzy Roll and Pele Lava Roll; in Poke Don, donburi rice bowls topped with ahi poke instead of the more traditional egg, chicken or tendon; and in a trademark appetizer that's a Japanese form of nachos, called Pokechos won ton strips, furikake, sprouts, avocado and seafood scattered on a platter and topped with a drizzled dressing. The menu runs the gamut from sashimi to kamameshi (hot stone rice bowls).  Honolulu: 1824 S. King St. 949-4584. Pearl City: 98-1225 Kaahumanu St. 487-0091. Bento counter: 9 a.m.-1:30 p.m. daily. Restaurant seating: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. No reservations. DC, DS, MC, JCB. No checks. $$.  Web site: www.gyotakuhawaii.com