It's fun, but don't expect a traditional kind of experience

Ask most North Shore denizens where they go to grind, and they'll reel off Cholos and Hale'iwa Joe's from the handful of perennial grazing places.

But a year ago, Brazilian Alessia Ucelli braved deep waters to open Banzai Sushi Bar in Hale'iwa. Her reason for taking the plunge — she was bummed out about having to drive all the way into town to eat one of her favorite foods.

Located in the North Shore Marketplace, the country version of a mall complex, Banzai's design is radical next to its pedestrian neighbors.

"Hawai'i has such beautiful landscape and weather, and people don't take advantage of that," says Ucelli. So she transplanted the Brazilian open-air aesthetic to her new surroundings.

The converted cottage's main dining area is a covered deck with conventional tables and chairs on one side, and on the other, low tables and cushions on the floor. Not quite tatami-style, plopping down on a pillow is like hanging out at a friend's comfy crib. For those who prefer sushi-chef rapport, there's also a six-seat sushi bar inside.

In the right conditions, Banzai Sushi is a dining destination. On a recent blustery evening, sipping on warmed house sake ($4.50), I felt relaxed, sitting cross-legged in the breeze with the sound of banana leaves rustling in the wind and raindrops on the roof above. Local homeboy Jack Johnson played from speakers overhead, his tunes shuffled with mellow reggae riffs.

However, those expecting a conventional sushi bar might be disappointed.

Surf videos playing silently on a large screen can be a gnarly distraction if your companions can't peel their eyes off the action. And sometimes, the kitchen suffers from inconsistency.

On two Saturday night visits, ama ebi ($6.75), uni ($6.95) and toro (market price) weren't available. Occasionally, maki rolls arrive irregularly cut in rough, unevenly sized pieces.

But I reminded myself that this was the North Shore, where folks don't usually get hung up on details unless they're ripping up a wave. Does Kelly Slater (who eats here) care that edamame ($3) and miso soup ($3.50) are listed as entrees?

Banzai peaks when it comes to a tasty small-plate lineup. Open-air dining on tako ($6.50) and 'ahi poke ($5.75) with a bottle of Kirin in hand exemplifies good Island living. Brazilian chef Renato Silva puts his own spin on the local snack, cutting the seafood into strips. Tender pieces of octopus resembled dried tako, and the ruby-red 'ahi was simply dressed in shoyu and sesame oil. Both could have used a tweak more Hawaiian chili heat.

Ucelli's South American influence popped up in unexpected ways — like ceviche dotted with purple onions, cilantro, tomatoes and shichimi pepper ($6.75). As I noshed on the tangy firm marlin chunks marinated in lemon and lime juice, I had flashbacks to ceviche I ate on a Carnivale night in Panama.

Banzai's fresh, inventive sushi offerings are no wipeout, but they're not spectacular, either. The masago-coated cucumber-and-salmon orange roll ($7.50 for 6 pieces) also includes mango, which acted like a tart, fruity pickle next to the fish.

Mamenori (soybean paper) in various colors livened up a veggie roll ($5.75 for 8 pieces) so that it takes on different guises with each order. Pipeline sashimi ($17.75 for 3 pieces each of 5 different fish) was a serious attempt, even if there were as much daikon shreds as fish.

Tempura ($5.75 to $8.75) was chewy and doughy instead of light and crunchy. Batter-dipped, deep-fried sushi rolls were filling and well-composed.

The Banzai's ($9 for 5 pieces) spicy tuna, avocado and cucumber were a light contrast to a heavy exterior. Spicy salmon roll ($9 for 5 pieces) with cream cheese and cucumber turned warm and slightly gooey, like a savory filled doughnut.

The Banzai crew's efforts to satisfy diners struck me as amusing rather than annoying.

Pungent shiso leaf appeared in the most unlikely places. I don't adore cheesecake, but thick, wicked wedges of Oreo and chocolate cheesecakes ($4) that aren't too dense or sweet bowled me over, even when garnished with a shiso leaf. My friendly, willowy waitress went so far as to make a sake caipirinha cocktail ($6.50) with shiso when the restaurant ran out of mint. I was asked beforehand, and the refreshing result was like an intensified, herby mojito.

Banzai Sushi Bar, smartly capitalizing on our environment, is a welcome alternative to burrito and burger joints.