Like many married couples, my wife and I own a fondue pot. And like seemingly every other fondue pot on the planet, it was a wedding present that has lived happily in its box on a high shelf since that day.

We did use it once, about six years ago. We thought it would be fun to have friends over and dip fruit and bread in chocolate. And it probably would have been, had the chocolate not seized up into a smoldering, unappetizing ball.

But in honor of the fondue pot's apparent comeback (take a glance at just about any holiday catalog or sales flier and you're bound to see one), I decided to give it another go. Plus, fondue really is perfect winter entertaining food that comes together quickly.

This time, I passed on the chocolate. If you really have your heart set on chocolate fondue, buy one of those dreadful chocolate fountains. For real fondue, cheese is the way to go.

And for that, gruyere is the go-to cheese. Eaten plain, gruyere isn't the most flavorful option. But it melts wonderfully and, when mixed with a bit of white wine, a dash of smoked paprika and some diced hot peppers, makes a wonderful dipping sauce. (If you don't like spice, skip the hot peppers and enjoy a plainer fondue.)

PEPPERY FONDUE