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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, December 24, 2006

Hong Kong a shopping dream for A-list, frugal alike

By Rosemary McClure
Los Angeles Times

HONG KONG — The photos hanging on the wall at Shanghai Tang show celebrity faces: Michael Douglas, Angelina Jolie, Keanu Reeves, Kate Moss, Jodie Foster.

Each is wearing a Chinese jacket, or cheongsam. Similar dresses and jackets, many priced at well over $1,000, line the racks. The store is full of browsers and buyers.

Welcome to Hong Kong, where the A-list does its luxury shopping.

Ranking alongside New York, London and Tokyo as one of the world's economic giants, Hong Kong pushes the envelope on design, architecture and obsessive consumerism. It's an exotic port of call with superb hotels, exceptional restaurants and flashy nightlife.

And, of course, world-class shopping: If you can't find what you want, you probably can have it made in 24 hours.

Nearly a decade has elapsed since the British handover of Hong Kong to China. The territory, an East-West trading center since the mid-19th century, prospered during Britain's 156-year rule. There was apprehension it would regress when the Chinese took over.

Instead, commerce has skyrocketed, along with the gleaming skyline. Multistory malls have sprung up crammed with designer shops. The latest additions in the Central District — the international business center — are Harvey Nichols, Gucci and Louis Vuitton, which join veterans Chanel, Cartier, Prada, Fendi and Dior.

ARRAY OF MARKETS

Although high-end shopping is a driving force in Hong Kong, the region's traditional low-end markets draw tourists — Stanley Market, Kowloon's Ladies Market and Temple Street Night Market.

At the other end of the spectrum, shoppers looking for museum-quality antiques, Chinese furniture, paintings and religious icons can still find them in the tiny storefronts along twisting Hollywood Road.

Although prices on designer and brand-name clothing seem similar to those in the U.S., there's no sales tax and the selection is vast. The best times to find deals are during the annual Shopping Festival from late June through August, and Winterfest, which begins in late November and ends Jan. 1.

Markdowns of up to 70 percent can be found. Sales also take place on the four days before Chinese New Year, Feb. 18, 2007.

"Everyone should visit then," said Hong Kong shopping guru and guide Wing Lau.

"I tell my clients to shop first, and then see the New Year's celebration. Prices are very low, and the parade and fireworks are spectacular."

THE MALLS

Hong Kong is proud of its many malls, but visitors may want to visit only a couple. Many feature the same designers.

  • Landmark: This Central District center (1 Pedder St., Central) features some of the biggest names in fashion. Stop for high tea at the cafe Landmark, a popular place for American celebs. Visit adjoining Prince's Building and Chater House to get your fill of high-end designers and the Pedder Building for outlet shops. (www.centralhk.com.)

  • Harbour City: It's easy to get lost in this mall, which has more than 700 shops. Cruise ships stopping in Hong Kong often deposit passengers here for a day. Most major brands are represented, but clothing in many stores runs too small for many Westerners. (3 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; http://harbourcity.com.hk.)

  • IFC: New high-rise mall in Hong Kong's tallest building, the 88-story International Finance Center. High-fashion boutique shops, plus the territory's first Four Seasons Hotel and an Airport Express terminal downstairs. (1 Harbour View St., Central; www.ifc.com.hk.)

  • Festival Walk: Gleaming multistory mall in the center of Kowloon; features midlevel designers and has a multiscreen movie theater and ice rink. (80 Tar Chee Ave., Kowloon Tong; www.festivalwalk.com.hk.)

    CLOTHING STORES

    Custom-tailored clothing has long been a mainstay in Hong Kong. Tourists don't have to look far to find shops where the proprietor will promise a new suit or a jacket almost overnight. Check with hotel concierges for recommendations; some have tailor services available in their shopping arcades. Otherwise, shop around, comparing prices and fabrics. The turnaround is usually 48 hours and should include two fittings.

  • Shanghai Tang: Founded in 1994 by Hong Kong businessman David Tang, this high-end clothing store features traditional Chinese designs. It offers home furnishings, accessories and gift items. The flagship store is in the Pedder Building in Central Hong Kong; other shops are in the Peninsula Hotel, Kowloon, and Hong Kong International Airport. (12 Pedder St., 2525-7333; www.shanghaitang.com.)

  • Lane Crawford: Shoppers find many familiar brands at this upscale women's clothing store, sometimes called the Saks of Hong Kong. The shop also carries furnishings, menswear, jewelry and accessories. Four mall locations, including a sleek 82,000-square-foot department store in the IFC mall. (Podium 3, IFC Mall; 2118-3388, http://lanecrawford.com.)

  • SOGO: Twelve-story, well-organized Japanese department store targets the high-end market, selling clothing, toys, electronics and food. Large variety, amazing selection; SOGO prides itself on being a one-stop shop where customers can find anything. (555 Hennessey Road, Causeway Bay; 2833-8338; and 12 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 3556-1212; www.sogo.com.hk.)

  • Marks & Spencer: This British clothing and food retailer, with outlets around the world, has several branches in Hong Kong. It's a good place to pick up basics. (For locations, see http://www2.marksandspencer.com/stores.)

    DECOR

  • Chinese Arts and Crafts: Wide selection of Chinese clothing, home furnishings, jewelry, accessories and porcelain. Several locations. (Shop 220, Phase 2, the Mall, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway; 2839-1188, www.crcretail.com.)

  • G.O.D. (Goods of Desire): This unusual Hollywood Road store offers eclectic housewares, apparel and accessories that mix Chinese design with modern elements. Fun products; many items are created by in-house designers. (48 Hollywood Road, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk.)

  • Chine Gallery: Classic Chinese designs in antique furniture and rugs. The store's customers include international dealers, museums, interior designers and collectors. (42A Hollywood Road, 2543-0023, http://chinegallery.com.)

  • Indigo Expressive Living: Innovative furniture and home furnishings shop prides itself on its funky products. (Showroom at 6/F Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong. Other locations in Prince's Building in the Central District and at Repulse Bay; 2552-0545, www.indigo-living.com.)

  • Arch Angel Antiques: Three floors of antiques, including furniture, porcelain, and tomb decorations at this Hollywood Road store. (53 Hollywood Road, 2851-6828.)

    MARKETS

    You might not be interested in buying T-shirts, jeans or knockoff purses from a sidewalk vendor, but visit Hong Kong's open-air street markets anyway — they're among the territory's liveliest spectacles. Be sure to bargain with vendors before buying.

  • Ladies Market: This daylong Kowloon Peninsula market gives visitors a good look at the colorful streets and alleys of urban Hong Kong. Among the sale items are clothing for men, women and children, wigs, cosmetics, toys, small electronics and watches. (Tung Choi Street, noon to 11:30 p.m. daily.)

  • Stanley Market: Most tours include the Stanley Market on Hong Kong Island; consequently, the streets are packed with sightseeing buses, and you'll be shopping shoulder to shoulder with other tourists. Souvenirs, Chinese artwork, inexpensive silk ties and silk garments are good buys. (Market Road, Stanley, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.)

  • Temple Street Night Market: The Night Market opens at 4 p.m. but really gets rolling after dark, selling clothing, souvenirs, watches, bric-a-brac and leather wear. There are other attractions, such as fortunetellers and, occasionally, Cantonese opera singers.