Place minced garlic and salt in a heavy mortar. Pound with a pestle into a smooth, sticky paste. Using the pestle, beat in the egg yolks and stir until mixture is smooth and lemon colored, about 30 seconds.

Begin to beat in the olive oil, adding 1 drop at a time, stirring constantly until the oil emulsifies with the egg yolks. Do not rush by adding the oil too fast. After you've added about 1/4 cup this way, increase the flow to a thin stream. If at any time you see the oil gather separately from the yolks, immediately stop adding oil while continuing to stir. Very shortly, the mixture should come back together.

When you have added about 1/2 cup of oil and the aioli is quite thick, stir in 1/2 teaspoon lukewarm water, then begin adding the oil again, starting again with a drop at a time.

When you've worked in about 3/4 cup oil, stop and taste the sauce. The texture should be creamy, not stiff and sticky. If it is too firm, stir in a little more water, up to 1 teaspoon. The flavor should be garlicky but sweet, with a balance of garlic and olive-oil flavor. If it's too garlicky, stir in a little more oil. Add more salt if necessary and lemon juice, to taste.

If the sauce "breaks" and the oil and yolks separate, it can be easily fixed. Add 1 whole egg to a blender and puree until smooth. Pour the broken aioli mixture into a measuring cup and, with the blender running, slowly add it to the pureed egg. When it is completely incorporated, slowly add more oil with the blender running until you have the texture and flavor you prefer.

Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use, but return to room temperature before serving. Aioli should be made no more than a couple of hours in advance.

Total time: 20 minutes.

Makes 3/4 to 1 cup.

Note: This recipe is very flexible. You can use a strong, peppery oil or a milder Provencal style. Add lemon, as little or as much as you like. Make aioli more garlicky by adding more minced garlic at the beginning.

GRILLED ARTICHOKES

Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice into a large saucepan with 6 cups of water. Add the lemon halves to the water.

Trim the artichokes to hearts, leaving the stems intact. Begin by holding the artichoke in your left hand with the stem facing toward you and the tip facing away. Slowly turn the artichoke against the sharp edge of the knife while making an abbreviated sawing motion. (It's easier to control if you use the base of the knife rather than the tip.) You will begin to cut through the tough outer leaves; when you can discern the natural cone shape of the artichoke, adjust the knife to follow it. Keep trimming just like this until you've cut away enough of the tough leaves so that you see only light green at the base. Cut away the top half-inch or so of the tip of the artichoke and dip the artichoke into the lemon water to keep the cut surfaces from discoloring. With a paring knife, trim away the very tip of the stem, then peel the stem and base of the artichoke, going from the tip to where the base meets the leaves. You'll have to do this at least five or six times to make it all the way around the artichoke. When you're done, there should be no dark green tough spots left, only pale green and ivory.

Dip each artichoke in lemon water to prevent browning, then cut in half lengthwise. If there is a hairy choke in the center of the heart, remove it (a serrated grapefruit spoon is easiest; a teaspoon will work, too). Put the cleaned halves in the lemon water and repeat for the remaining artichokes.

Add the salt to the soaking water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook just until the artichokes are tender at the heart, about 15 minutes. Remove the artichokes to a plate with a slotted spoon, and set aside to cool and dry.

Place the wood chips in a bowl, cover with water and soak at least 30 minutes. Light a fire and when it is medium-hot (when you can hold your hand at grill level to a count of three), add the wood chips. Let them flame up and die down.

Brush the artichokes lightly with oil and place around the outside of the grill. Cover and cook for 3 or 4 minutes. Remove the lid, turn the artichokes and cook another 3 or 4 minutes, just until lightly bronzed on both sides. Watch carefully, because they will go from golden to charred very quickly. Remove to a serving platter.

Total time: 55 minutes.

Servings: 4.

GRILLED FLANK STEAK

One hour before cooking, unwrap the flank steak. Liberally season with salt and pepper on both sides. Rub lightly with oil. Wrap in plastic wrap and return it to refrigerator.

Place the wood chips in a bowl, cover with water and soak at least 30 minutes. Light a fire, and when it is medium-hot (when you can hold your hand at grill level to a count of three), add the wood chips. Let them flame up and die down.

Over the hottest part of the flame, sear flank steak on one side, about 3 minutes, then turn and sear on the other, another 3 minutes. Move the steak to a slightly cooler part of the grill and cook another 3 minutes on each side, to medium-rare. Remove to a platter and let stand about 5 minutes.

Carve the flank steak on a deep bias, laying your knife almost flat against the cutting board to get the thinnest, widest cuts.

Total time: 15 minutes, plus marinating time and time to prepare the grill.

Serves 4 to 6.