In the summer heat, nothing seems more appropriate than a glass of rosé — a crisp, dry, fruity rosé that delivers both charm and a multitude of food affinities. Think bruschetta, seared 'ahi, smoked salmon and paella.

Rosé's hue, which can range from the palest salmon pink to a vivid strawberry red, can be deceiving. Unlike the cotton-candy taste of a white zinfandel, the bright acidity and fresh fruit taste of rosé is refreshing and inviting. But getting past the perception associated with its color is a hurdle many refuse to jump. It seems no matter how many times people hear about the virtues of rosé, the pink color makes them think "sweet."

Of course, when they taste a well-made rosé, their facial expressions tell all. Eyes widening, surprise, if not shock, in their voices as they smell the wine, inhaling the delicious fruit and looking again at its color, the same blush as on their cheeks.

Rosé can come from a blend of many different red grapes or just one, such as syrah. The Italians use ancient, obscure grape varietals like lagrein. In Spain, the typical rosé, or rosato, is made from garnacha, or as the French call it, grenache. Southern France is famous for its grenache-based rosé from appellations such as Tavel and Cairanne. The French also do cabernet franc-based rosés from the Loire and mourvedre-based rosés from Bandol. Californians are experimenting with rosé from pinot noir, cabernet and several Rhone grape varietals.

Of course, there is plenty of the wine many still associate with the color pink — white zinfandel. This popular sweet wine comes from California's native grape, zinfandel. Many today, myself included, give kudos to white zinfandel for enticing more Americans to try wine. It also puts money in the bank and allows many wineries to make the highly sought-after and more expensive, allocated wines that have helped rocket the domestic wine industry.

The Aussies are doing several rosés, including pinot noir rosé from the Yarra Valley in Victoria and a sparkling one from Tasmania.

There are several different ways that rosé gets its color and its character. The first technique is called maceration. It involves leaving the skins in with the juice after the grapes are crushed. Once the desired color is achieved, the juice is drained and moved to another vessel to ferment. Thin-skinned grapes such as pinot noir and grenache require a longer maceration while thick-skinned grapes such as syrah, cabernet and zinfandel enjoy a much shorter contact time.

The saignee or "bled" method is another way of making rosé. An hour or two after crushing a blend of dark-skinned, intensely flavored grapes such as cabernet franc or tempranillo (which would otherwise be used to make a powerful red wine), a certain amount of juice is drawn off or "bled" and fermented into a delicate rosé.

Blending red and white wines together is another way of making rosé wines. It's the way most rosé champagnes are made, the only time blending red and white wine is allowed in France.

So the next time you see pink, don't jump to conclusions. That blush-hued wine may be a versatile, refreshing liquid and not the sweet candied wine you associate with its color.

Here are a few great rosés to keep in the fridge or throw in the picnic basket this summer: